“We don’t have the time. We will get late to our next destination. Besides, it can’t be more elaborate than the Jaisalmer palace….also, the road is narrow, the driver is reluctant…..”
… The tussle continued but my pleading finally won. With a strict deadline of one hour, I set off to explore the “Mansion of Brocade Merchants.” Popularly called Patwon ki Haveli or Patwa ki Haveli, this place made my opposition choke on their own words. The place was definitely at par, if not more elaborate, that the Jaisalmer Palace. It was different and needed more than the borrowed time that I got.

Contents
- 1 History of Patwon ki Haveli, Jaisalmer
- 2 The architecture of Patwon ki Haveli
- 3 Silver ceilings, mirror work & murals in Patwa ki Haveli
- 4 The Museum at the Golden Haveli
- 5 View from the terrace of Jaisalmer Haveli
- 6 Hidden safes at the haveli of Jaisalmer
- 7 Other Jaisalmer Havelis of Rajasthan
- 8 How to reach Patwon ki Haveli Jaisalmer?
- 9 Best time to visit Patwon ki Haveli?
- 10 Where to eat in Jaisalmer?
- 11 Where to stay in Jaisalmer?
- 12 Travel Tips
- 13 Booking resources
History of Patwon ki Haveli, Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer was a key stop for traveling trade on the famous silk route. The city had its share of merchants and the key among them was Guman Chand Patwa. His primary business was dealing with gold and silver threads that were used in brocade work and dresses for the royalty.
However, that was supposedly his official business. The tradesman was rumored to be a loan shark and an opium dealer. Such was his riches that his business had spread across Rajasthan and some parts of Iran and China. In 1805, he decided to make a grand haveli, which took 55 years to complete.
Soon, he got four more havelis built- ensuring that each one of sons had one for themselves. The cluster of five came to be collectively called Patwon ki haveli.

With the silk route slowly changing its course and new ports opening up, the family business of Guman Chand Patwa dwindled. The havelis were abandoned and fell into disrepair. One of the havelis was bought over by another tradesman – Shri Jeevan Lal Kothari but the rest remained in disuse until 1974. This is when they attracted the attention of the then Prime Minister of India – Indira Gandhi. It was she would got the Rajasthan Government to grant the Havelis a national heritage status.
Patwa ki Haveli is now maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India and Rajasthan Arts and Craft. The main haveli has been restored and converted into a museum. The others serve as an office.
Kothari’s Patwon ki Haveli remains privately owned and can also, be visited. But of course, I missed out on that Jaisalmer Haveli! :-(.
The architecture of Patwon ki Haveli
60 ornamental balconies! The sight of these artistic jharokhas on the golden havelis of Jaisalmer was enough to leave my travel adversaries dumbstruck!

Patwon ki haveli is a splendid example of typical Rajasthani architecture. The intricately carved walls that end in those delicate chajjas on those yellow sandstone walls and the contrasting windows with the artistic arches promised a treasure trove of experience. The multi-storied buildings could best be described as artistic apartments!

The golden havelis were all made in a courtyard-style with one or two central squares and rooms around it. Each of these courtyards have an artistic piece- a mosaic peacock, a small fountain or a painted mural. It is different in each of the havelis as is their architectural and decor theme. Each one of them appear similar on the outside but are a little different from within.


Patwa ki Haveli is said to be the 2nd haveli built in Rajasthan and the first haveli in Jaisalmer. It set the trend of exotic havelis with rich frescoes and murals across the caravan route destinations like Bikaner and Shekhavati. The palatial buildings often surpassed the Rajasthani palaces with their decor and that my friends, was enough to prove to my travel counterparts that visiting Jaisalmer haveli was one of the topmost things to do in Jaisalmer.
When it comes to Havelis of Rajasthan, you must go on the merchant trail in Bikaner.. Have a glimpse of the seemingly triangular Rampuria haveli, the carved facades of Kothari havelis and the murals that make their appearance on the outside. Read through this post.
Silver ceilings, mirror work & murals in Patwa ki Haveli

The interiors of the Patwa Haveli will leave you dazzled. Every inch of the wall is either covered by silver mirrors or has colorful murals on it. The ceilings too, are a similar story with colored glasswork and painted borders depicting Rajasthani life. Even the arched windows and doors were either carved or painted.


None of these works of art is similar. Each room, each ceiling, pillar, and door is different in terms of its theme. It is hard not to be bewitched by the work within the Jaisalmer haveli. You need to be able to take those slow breaths as you explore the place. Sadly, it was rush hour for me – but that did not stop me from throwing that dirty look at my sheepish travelers.
The Museum at the Golden Haveli

The rejuvenated interiors of Patwon ki Haveli now hosts a museum curated by Rajasthan Arts ad Craft. Walking through the maze of corridors and rooms will allow you to witness the little nuances of the Rajasthani life in the 1900s. From ancient locks, astronomy instruments to traditional musical instruments, the curators have attempted to explain the trends of that era with small sign boards.



Certain sections of the Rajasthani Havelis like the kitchen and dining room have been re-created to showcase the traditional living. It was quite interesting to read these little stories of how the men sat on cushions with a little table to hold their plates on which they were served hot food by the women. Among the vessels, the households favored brass utensils for serving.



The large trunk, a chest of drawers and jewelry hangers by the mirror pretty much made up the little dressing area of the women. The living area seemed to be of two types – one with traditional low seating and the other with the colonial sofas. Given that Guman Chand and his sons were money lenders even for the royalty and the British, they might have used each of these rooms to receive the appropriate guests.
View from the terrace of Jaisalmer Haveli

The panoramic view of the Jaisalmer town is something that you must take in from the terraces of this haveli. Standing there, I could catch a glimpse of the other havelis of this Patwa cluster.
In my mind’s eye, I saw little boys and girls playing hide and seek in the open space. Curtains closed and opened again to reveal another scene – this time during the Makar Sankranti or Kite flying festival where the youngsters stood on this terrace and squealed in delight as they cut their competitors’ kites.
Hidden safes at the haveli of Jaisalmer
Trringgg!!! Time to exit.
This time it wasn’t just me being reluctant but my fellow travelers too. We made our way out but not before stopping by to see the hidden safes of Patwon ki Haveli. What seemed like an exquisite painting was actually a door to a safe. The little holes were used to store money, gems and jewelry from the prying eyes of the servants and possible thieves.


Each haveli has more than one such safe and at numerous places. You might have even passed a few without knowing that they were actually safes.
Frankly, this was not the best way to leave Patwon ki Haveli. The secret unraveled left me with this feeling that there was a lot more that I had missed.
“We should have planned better! This was much better than expected and worth every minute we have stolen” – those were the comforting (or an attempt to comfort) words of the same companions. The only consolation I had is that they had bitten back on their own words. Ah well, maybe I shall return again!
Other Jaisalmer Havelis of Rajasthan
Patwon ki Haveli is the only haveli in Jaisalmer that has detailed interiors for you to enjoy. This is including the Kothari Patwa Haveli next door. Frankly speaking, I did not know about this access to the neighboring haveli until a little later. Even if I had known, I might have not made it. I am given to understand that this place has even more amazing murals and artwork within it. It might not be as well restored as the government one but is beautiful in a very raw and authentic manner.
Besides these Jaisalmer Havelis, you must stop by at two other merchant homes.
Nathmal ki Haveli in Jaisalmer

This Jaisalmer Haveli is supposedly the best of all havelis in Jaisalmer. It used to belong to the Prime Minister of the Jaisalmer Maharaja – Diwan Mohata Nathmal. What makes it intriguing is the tale of its construction. Two muslim architects – Lulu and Hathi started constructing this from opposite ends of the building. This resulted in similar looking but not identical parts of the haveli. However, the stunning blend of Rajasthani and Islamic architecture more than made up for these little differences.
Nathmal ki Haveli is a place where you can shop in Jaisalmer. The families who currently stay in the Haveli sell some delightful art and crafts of Rajasthan. While you are there, you can witness the two life-sized elephants at the entrance and the intricately carved pillars within the haveli.
Salim Singh ki Haveli in Jaisalmer

Salim Singh used to be the diwan in the court of Jaisalmer. His notorious and cruel ways are what make him a villain in the history of Jaisalmer. In fact the ghost village of Kuldhara near Jaisalmer was supposedly abandoned because of him. Read this post on Kuldhara to know the story.
While he might be detested for his ways, there is no denying that his abode is an architectural marvel. Narrow at the base, the haveli rises to the 2nd floor and expand to include 38 ornate balconies. Owing to this unique structure, the Haveli was called as Jahaz Mahal (Ship Palace). The real inspiration for this structure is said to be a dancing peacock.
Legend has it that Salim Singh attempted to constructed three more floors to make his haveli taller than the Jaisalmer Palace. His Majesty did not take kindly to that and had the same demolished.
You can visit Salim Singh ki Haveli and even venture inside but there isn’t much left of it to see. It has its trademark elephant at the entrance – a sign of nobility and some bit of mirror work and carvings within the rooms. Personally, I would have loved to see it but as you know how this whirlwind tour of Nathmal ki Haveli has been! Either way, I have armed you with the knowledge of how to complete it for me. So go on and pin this to your board!






How to reach Patwon ki Haveli Jaisalmer?
- Jaisalmer has a defense airport with limited flights. It is one way to reach the golden city of Rajasthan.
- If flights are not an option, then consider a long road trip to Jaisalmer. It can be quite a distance but a stop at Bikaner or Jodhpur would make it interesting too. There are quite a few transfers that you can book online. I have shared them in the Booking Resources section below.
- Railways is another comfortable option to get to Jaisalmer.
- Once in Jaisalmer, you can head to Patwon ki Haveli by hiring an auto. I recommend this over a cab as the roads to the area are very narrow. In fact, it is just 1.5 km from the Jaisalmer bus stand and one can slowly walk to the place.
Best time to visit Patwon ki Haveli?

Needless to say that summers are avoidable when heading to the desert city of Jaisalmer. The most pleasant weather would be from October to February.
Patwon ki Haveli is open from 9 am to 5 pm every day.
Where to eat in Jaisalmer?
There are tons of restaurants in Jaisalmer that you can visit. Over the few days that we were in Jaisalmer, we hopped to various restaurants near the bus stand and Jaisalmer fort. One place- Jodhana stood out for me for its simple vegetarian affair. It is a small local outlet with yummy Rajasthani food – bajre ki roti, dahi ka saag and sev-tamatar sabji.
Where to stay in Jaisalmer?

Jaisalmer has hotels of every possible budget for you to choose from. There are very affordable heritage havelis that have been converted to hotels as well as luxury palaces like Suryagarh.
In terms of areas, consider staying around Jaisalmer palace. I stayed at Nirmal Haveli – a restored heritage stay, right opposite to the Jaisalmer palace. Though I had booked my desert safari and stay separately, most of the hotels you stay in will be happy to do it for you. Check out the Booking resources below to help you with these.
Travel Tips
- The entrance fees to Patwon ki Haveli is INR 100 for Indians and INR 250 for foreigners. Cameras are charged extra.
- Right outside Patwon ki Haveli are lots of shops that sell Rajasthani handicrafts. These are quite good in quality and very affordable. It is a good idea to shop and buy some of these handicrafts.
- Restrooms are available in Patwon ki Haveli.
- The staircase in the Havelis is very steep and narrow. It might be a little difficult for the physically challenged or elderly people to scale the same.
Booking resources
- You could use Booking.com for booking your Jaisalmer hotels.
- Klook.com offers some interesting tours of the Jaisalmer fort that include a night walks and a food tour. Use the respective links to see the details and book them online.
- GetYourGuide is another resource that has tours and cab transfers listed on their site and you can get an instant confirmation for the same.
- Amazon is a lovely option to pick up all that you need for your home and travel. Do consider using this link to shop online.
Disclaimer: This article includes affiliate links. This means that at no cost to you, I will receive a small commission if you purchase through my link. Thank you for supporting me with this.

Popularly referred to as a Restless Ball of Energy. My Mom refuses to entertain my complaints about my equally restless daughter & assures my husband that I was born with a travel bug.
I am a Post-Graduate in Marketing by qualification and a travel blogger by passion. Besides travel, I enjoy photography and if you don’t find me at my desk, I would be out playing badminton or swimming or just running. I believe in planning for every long weekend through the year. And when I cannot travel physically, I travel virtually through this travel blog. My travel stories have also, got published on various websites and magazines including BBC Travel, Lonely Planet India and Jetwings. I have recently published my first book – When Places Come Alive – a collection of stories that are based on legends, landscapes, art and culture of a place which is available in both ebook and paperback format.
The havelis look so royal! That’s the best part about Rajasthan. Is Salim Singh the same person from the haunted Kuldhara?
Indeed, the very same guy. 😀
I can’t believe that this monumental structures took 55 years to build, and composed of 5 individual residences! That is so grand and spectacular. The engineers of the early days definitely don’t want to waste time working hard that won’t last a lifetime. We are so grateful, and now you got the chance to experience the beauty!
They sure knew how to handle those details – the engineers! I am glad that this beautiful piece of work has been recognized and they are attempting to preserve it. Thanks for stopping by Blair.
Oh wow.. Indeed a lesser known gem. Good that you fought to not miss this place! Being in the silk route, no wonder the merchants were rich and built such spectacular palaces. Interesting story about Guman Chand Patwa. OMG, the ornate arches, the sculptural details, the mirror work and silver work are all just too impeccable. Salim Singh Haveli looks so unique! I think I need more than a day to just see the havelis here.
A day to see these havelis is good enough as some of the areas are restricted. But yes, a complete day! Am glad to have at least got some glimpse of it.
This palace is a real masterpiece. It is so intricately finished, sculptures, mosaics, vaults, everything is so beautiful that it is intimidating. The mosaics on the ceilings, these great details, it’s hard to take your eyes off it all. I’d like to see Patwon ki Haveli. It’s great that you provided prices and useful tips.
Thanks Agnes. I am glad that I managed to at least do a quick tour of this place. It was so worth it.
This was pure nostalgia. Loved recollecting my own memories and the stories of this haveli, especially its jharokhas, the mirror works and the narrow staircases. In 2015, I was there for good three days in Jaisalmer and had a chance to visit most of its popular hotspots. Patwon ki haveli is fascinating for sure and brings pure joy. Jaisalmer Haveli is enchanting. Hope you don’t miss it next time.
I would like to do a slow tour of these havelis and I sure hope to make it there sometime again. Thanks for stopping by Manjulika.
Always wonderful when you visit somewhere that exceeds all expectations. Those 60 ornamental balconies would certainly take me more than an hour to explore. And then there are the beautiful coloured ceilings! I love when interiors have been re-created so that you can see how people lived. I can see why this architecture and design set the trend for other havelis.
Thank you Linda. This place did blow my senses. The details are so rare these days. I hope you can get here and visit the gem
Certainly a revelation for me as I knew nothing about Patwa ki Haveli. What a fascinating structure. I always love to know about the history of the places that I visit and hence this virtual tour was really exciting for me. It was like traveling with you. Thanks for the tips too.
Thank you Subhashish. It feels good to know that the virtual tour here has been interesting for you. Hope you can get to it for real.
Wow! This architectural masterpiece is fascinating. Looking at the intricate designs and the carvings, I can understand why it took so long to be completed. It would be a wonderful experience to see this up close and appreciate those artistic arches and sandstone walls. We would love to visit in the future.
Hope you can get here soon. Clarice. I highly recommend adding this to your list for India.
Oh my god yes! You are so right, the interiors look stunning I can’t even imagine how much more amazing the walls and ceilings look in person. With all those details I’m surprised it didn’t take even longer for them to finish the construction. I also love how they set up that museum to show a little better how the rooms used to look like.
In fact, I shudder to think how many days each little corner might have taken. Am glad though that it is still there for us to appreciate. Thanks for stopping by Loudes.
Rajasthan is so close to my heart as I lived there for a few years. Jaisalmer trip is even more special as I took my team there for thanksgiving. Having seen most of the famous palaces of Rajasthan, beauty of golden Jaisalmer blew me away. My jaw dropped when I stood in front of Patwa ki Haveli. It is indeed magnificent. Its a shame that I could not explore the Haveli due to shortage of time and your post not only gave me lot of insights into the palace, it also rekindled the memories from an old trip. Beautiful photos of this colorful city.
Thank you Monica. I am so sorry that you could not see the interiors but well, something is better than nothing. Hopefully you will get there again and see what you had missed the first time. 😀
Beautiful…. such an elaborate and nice write-up.. thank you for sharing Ami 🙂
Thank you. Glad you liked it.