First Published on June 2, 2016
If Bajirao Mastani interests you and if you have liked my last post on Shaniwar Wada, you are sure to get intrigued by this one. The Mastani Mahal – or the Palace of Mastani. For those who have not seen the movie or are unaware of Bajirao, a quick story from history.
The Epic Romance of Bajirao Mastani
Bajirao as I have mentioned earlier, was the Prime Minister or Peshwa to Chhatrapati Shahu. A mighty leader who had led several campaigns for the Chhatrapati and returned victorious in those. Amongst the various military campaigns he led, was one for Maharaja Chhatrasal of Bundelkhand. The Maharaja was facing a constant threat from the Mughal officials and called upon this brave Peshwa to help him out. Peshwa Baji Rao answered his plea and emerged victorious in this battle. As a sign of gratitude, it is said that the Maharaja offered him his daughter Mastani.
Image Credits: Mughal School under Public Domain, via Wikimedia CommonsIt is said that Mastani bai was one of the most beautiful women of her times and it is no wonder that Baji Rao fell head over heels in love with her. He took her on as his second wife and returned home to face the wrath of his Brahmin mother. A couple of reasons why the mother-in-law hated her new daughter-in-law – She was a half Muslim and a half Hindu. Some say that she was not a true princess – a daughter of a dancer from the Maharaja’s court. Well !!! Among the many virtues that Baji Rao’s mother had, tolerance was definitely missing!
Well, the story goes like any other mom-in-law and daughter-in-law story goes. However, this went to the extent that the lady Mastani was put under house arrest when Baji Rao was out for a military campaign. On his return, he freed Mastani and put her up in her own separate residence – Mastani Mahal.
Mastani Mahal
The Mastani Mahal no longer exists in Pune. However, history has it that it was a beautiful palace. The best part of it is that a section of it still lives – not at its original location but at the Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum in Pune.
About the Mastani Mahal at Kelkar MuseumDr. D.G Kelkar was instrumental in helping conserve this piece of heritage. The original Mastani Mahal is said to have been in Kothrud, in Pune. After being ignored for years, and before it completely vanished, Dr. Kelkar helped dismantle and recreate a part of this palace within his own museum. The rest as you can read above.
Mastani Mahal Section of Kelkar MuseumThe gorgeous sitting arrangements, the chandeliers, the wall art and Mastani’s instruments is what fills up the space. Granted that this is just a small room and some of you might say – what is the big deal. For me, I saw something more than just a room.
I pictured the beautiful Mastani playing her instrument while Bajirao was reclining on the pillows, admiring his wife. In the background were two maids, fanning their master and mistress, enjoying the beautiful melody that Mastani bai created 🙂
Mastani’s silver mirror and musical instrumentI happened to chat with a few officials of the museum and they told me that the woodwork in the recreated palace, behind the seating arrangements was originally found at Mastani Mahal. As was the silver mirror and her musical instrument that you see at the end of the seating. I am not sure of the ceiling being the original, but if it were, I would not be surprised either.
The corridors of Mastani Mahal section at Kelkar MuseumThe corridors that you see above, used to be the endless ones in the original palace. Imagine the dark wooden corridors lit with numerous lamps lighting up the path for Bajirao to meet his beloved. 🙂
I know that the grandeur displayed here is a small representation of what is completely lost. However, I am happy that some bit of history is still preserved. My vote of thanks to Dr.Kelkar for preserving and gifting us memoirs of the past. And that was not all, he preserved many other amazing things. All that in my next post about the Kelkar Museum in Pune. Till then, let’s admire and pin up this bit of the epic romance between Baji Rao and Mastani, at the Mastani Mahal in Pune.
Getting to Mastani Mahal:
- Pune is easily accessible by road, rail and air from Mumbai as well as other cities of India. There are plenty of direct international flights to Pune.
- Mastani Mahal is a part of the Kelkar Museum that is right in the middle of Pune city. You can reach Kelkar Museum by bus, cab or an auto rickshaw. Many tourist buses take you on a tour of this museum.
My other posts on Pune:
Anupam Chakraborty
First time I am reading about this! Loved reading it. Thanks for sharing.
Ami
Thanks Anupam.
asoulwindow
Very interesting. Would love to see this next time I am Pune. Especially after watching the movie Bajirao Mastani. Good story!
Ami
The whole of Kelkar Museum was amazing. Post coming up soon 😀
asoulwindow
Great. Awaited.
Yogi Saraswat
I was looking for this type of post on Mastani mahal. very informative really
Ami
Thank you Yogi
Akanksha Dureja
My two and a half year stint in Pune was filled with weekend getaways to western ghats and now after reading this post, I regret not exploring the city to it’s potential. I shall return someday, with an agenda.
Ami
Thanks Akanksha. Now you know where to go on your next trip to Pune
Steps Together
Very good post..
Ami
Thanks 😀
Klipdrifters
The chandeliers and wall art looks beautiful. What a great story of this by gone era!
Ami
Thank you. I know that this is just a small preview of what was but at least we have that.
vishvarsha
After reading multiple posts of yours, now I know, I may have explored enough around Pune but I surely haven’t seen the historic city itself.
Ami
Thanks Varsha and hopefully, you will now take a tour of the city itself 🙂
Dudhwa National Park
this is an excellent stuff here, i love the movie Bajiro Mastani!! Ami also love your writeup too.
Ami
Thank you
Alana Mautone (@RamblinGarden)
Another view of amazing Indian art. Beautiful!
Archie
Must have been a wonderful place in its time 🙂 great pics!
Ami
It sure was. Thanks Archie
Rajiv Verma
Waah! This is wonderful! Your last few posts have introduced me to so much history in a wonderful way jitna maine purey school me nahi padha tha 🙂
Ami
Thanks Rajiv. I am sure it was better than the school books. 😉
Rajiv Verma
Oh totally. And all the more interesting 😉
2traveldads
Wow! It’s so beautiful and ornate, but also seems like a livable residence. India has so much history and art. So beautiful!
Ami
Thanks Guys. The room is so beautiful that it is hard to imagine what the palace might have been.
enidhi
Didn’t notice this place during my earlier visit… will note for next trip
Ami
This was an addition to the Kelkar museum. Though a small room, I did think it was well done.
Purba Chakraborty (@Manchali_Purba)
Stunning captures. I would love to visit this place. Loved the movie, Bajirao Mastani and I am so eager to visit these historical places. Great post, Ami 🙂
Ami
Thank you Purba. Thanks to the movie, I managed to revisit all of them again
Marta - Learningescapes
Your photos are always incredible but this place seems special: the texture and the colour is so unusual and beautiful. I enjoyed reading the story, I had never heard it before, thank you for sharing
Ami
Thanks Marta. Bajirao and Mastani’s story is not as popular as the other epic ones in India but is fascinating nonetheless.
Couple On Quest
Very well captured and elaborated. Couldn’t agree more with you Ami nothing precious than preserving the past memoirs.
When I visited this place as a kid, I imagined the Baji Rao-Mastani era for many years till the movie came out 😛
Ami
Thanks guys. I think our heritage is our strength. There are very few places today that can boast of diverse cultures and heritage as India and we must do our best to preserve it.
Jyotirmoy Sarkar
Grand and gorgeous, thanks a lot for sharing with nice clicks.
Ami
Thank you
indrani
Grand interiors! I am glad it is being preserved well.
Ami
It sure feels good that someone has done something right
Pradhan
A great place to see. 1st time I got know about this place.
Thanks for sharing.
Ami
Thanks Pradhan
2travellingsisters
Such an elaborate work!! Gorgeous living space for a gorgeous woman!!
Ami
And to imagine, this is just one room preserved. 🙂 Thanks for dropping by
piyukamath
It looks like a place fit for someone, supposed to have been so beautiful! Rich!
Ami
Thanks Priyanka. Think of how grand the original palace must have been
Kevin Wagar
Looks like a very cool display with an incredible story behind it. I love visiting places that can capture my imagination like this!
Ami
Me too Kevin. Thanks for dropping by
Nikki
Wow this really is incredible India! It’s the sort of room I could sit in for hours pondering about life (and blogging!)
Ami
Thanks Nikki. It sure is a beautiful room
Corinne Rodrigues
Wonderful. Hats off to people like Dr Kelkar who work so hard to preserve history and kudos to you for bringing this and other wonders to our notice, Ami
Ami
Thanks Corinne. Though a small room, the effort that went into preserving it, made me feel happy.
vishalbheeroo
Gorgeous Mahal witnessing the love of Bajirao and Mastani:)
Ami
Thank you Vishal
Vyjay Rao
My list of places to visit in Pune keeps growing, thanks to you, Ami. This museum seems fascinating, especially with the recent Bollywood movie, the romance of the Peshwa and Mastani, has come to the fore 🙂
Ami
Thanks Vyjay. Pune is an amazing city to explore
elizabeth
The original palace must have been quite elegant. So good that some part was preserved and the history has not been lost.
Ami
Absolutely. Glad that some bit of that still exists
Colby
Wow. So informative! Definitely enlightening me to things I’ve never heard of.
Ami
Thanks Colby
Arun
Such an interesting place! Thanks to the movie Bajirao Mastani, got to know about a part of history which I was totally unaware of. Will surely visit this on my next trip to Pune.
Wonderful post Ami 🙂
Ami
Thank you Arun
Nitin
this was very interesting and informative. well worked out piece. 🙂
Ami
Thank you Nitin
The Untourists
I have been to Pune so many time,s but never visited the zkelkar museum. This time I must…
Ami
And it is so going to be worth it. Stay tuned for my next post on Kelkar museum
The Tales of A Traveler
Splendid interiors … I wonder if we had the actual Mahal standing in all glory today … what a sight it could be!!
Thanks for sharing such hidden gems … I don’t remember reading this anywhere else..
Ami
Thanks Swati. It is a hidden gem
Stella the Travelerette
That was an interesting story about the history behind the place. I guess people have been fighting with their in-laws since the beginning of time. I love the interior of the museum, especially the color. Thanks for sharing the photos!
Ami
Thank you Stella for stopping by. This was a clear inter-caste debate that led to this whole drama. Nonetheless, must say that though things have changed but not completely. 🙂
Agness of Fit Travelling
This is definitely one of a kind museum, Ami! I’ve never seen any similar to this one. Is it open every day?
Ami
Yes, it is open everyday. It sure is a lovely place.
Satya P Keshava
Thanks to Dr Kelkar that at least some of the Mastani memorabilia has been salvaged. I knew about
Mastani in an academic sense, but my appetite was whetted after I saw Bajirao Mastani film. The movie
showed that the palace was set fire to. It it true?
Too bad Bajirao died at age 38. He was among the best of the PeshwAS.
i DO NOT HAVE A WEBSITE.
Ami
Indeed thanks to Dr. Kelkar for having preserved some of these memories. Wish we could have seen more of it. However, something is better than nothing.
Anindya Sundar Basu
Wow goosebumps. Its almost as if you went back to the surroundings of the film
Ami
Oh yes, the movie was true to the actual settings 😀
Prithwiraj Chakraborty
Hi,thrilling travel.
First of all,love the way you have described about Mastani Mahal.
I would love to know if you are in anytype of social media.Thank you.
Ami
Thank you. I am available on various social channels. The links are in the side bar of my website.