Exploring the artistic Mandawa Havelis in Shekhawati, Rajasthan

One had a steam train chugging along
While another wall had a woman dancing to a folk song. 
Faded walls showcased scenes from Venice, British India and the royal courts
Such is the variety that the timeless frescoes of Mandawa Havelis sports

Discover the quintessential Shekhawati havelis of Mandawa with this virtual tour. This travel guide lists the key mansions and other places to visit in Mandawa, their highlights and practical tips on how to get there, where to stay etc. 

At almost 170 km from Jaipur, my drive culminated at what was referred to as the open art gallery of Rajasthan. Every tiny lane I turned into had at least one opulent mansion luring me into its gates. The little hamlet of Mandawa was filled with the famed Shekhawati havelis I had seen only in pictures. The sight of these frescoed beauties filled me with frenzy – so much that I decided to skip a meal and get started with my much-awaited tour of Mandawa.

One of the many abandoned painted havelis of Mandawa
One of the many abandoned painted havelis of Mandawa

Quite like the other painted towns of the Shekhawati regions, Mandawa is famous for its frescoed havelis – most of which were built in the 18th century. A lot of them have been abandoned and are in a dilapidated state. Despite that, as I discovered, they are well worth a visit – for their magnificent details. There are so many tiny stories that have been etched forever on the walls of these Shekhawati Havelis Mandawa.

In this blog post, I will guide you to the best of the Mandawa Havelis and their key highlights. There are a lot of insider tips on how you can visit the havelis of Mandawa, the best time to get here, entrance fees if any, where you can get a guide and where you can stay. Besides the frescoed beauties, I will be sharing the other places to visit in Mandawa. In short, there are enough details to help you with your own Shekhawati and Mandawa trip.

Quick links for your Mandawa Trip

Here are some links that will help you with your Mandawa and Shekhawati trip. You can click through them and book the ones that appeal to you.

Disclaimer: This article includes affiliate links. This means that at no cost to you, I will receive a small commission if you purchase through my link. Thank you for supporting me with this.

Where is Mandawa? | About Mandawa

Mandawa village is located in the state of Rajasthan and is around 170 km from Jaipur. It is one of the 25 key places in Shekhawati – known for its majestic havelis that are painted with frescoes. It falls under Jhunjhunu district and has been a popular backdrop for Bollywood movies like Bajrangi Bhaijan and PK.  

History of Mandawa in Rajasthan

If you have seen my earlier post on Nawalgarh, another Shekhawati town, you would have heard of Thakur Nawal Singh. He was one of the administrators of the Jaipur royal court and was granted a lot of land in the Shekhawati region. Mandawa and Nawalgarh, were both under his jagir (land grant).

A glimpse of the Mandawa castle built by Thakur Nawal Singh - one of the places to visit in Mandawa
A glimpse of the Mandawa castle built by Thakur Nawal Singh – one of the places to visit in Mandawa

In the early 18th century, when the silk route from Central Asia to China was active, Mandawa was developed as a trading outpost. This is when rich merchants decided to settle into the village and thus, built lavish bungalows that were covered from top to bottom by colorful frescoes. This is where the first of the Mandawa Havelis history can be traced.

Renowned business families like the Goenkas, Chokhanis, Sarafs settled in to make Mandawa village their home. It continued to be so till the route vanished. The merchants and their families slowly moved to other business hubs and gradually the ornate Mandawa mansions were shut down and abandoned. Today, these havelis – in whatever state they are in – are the key Mandawa tourist places that draw visitors from far and near. They are the reason why this town has been called an open art gallery or the painted town of Shekhawati.

The current state of the Mandawa havelis

The Faded frescoes on Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli -  one of the Mandawa Havelis
The Faded frescoes on Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli – one of the Mandawa Havelis

The story of the Mandawa havelis is quite similar to that of the Chettinad mansions in Karaikudi. With the expanding families and shift of business centers, almost all the Mandawa havelis were locked up and abandoned. Most of them have fallen into disrepair and their rich frescoes are slowly fading. Doors are falling off and the rich woodwork slowly decaying.

Though these mansions are the key places for sightseeing in Mandawa, there are no maintenance or restoration attempts being made by the tourism authorities. I am told that the authorities claim that they are unable to do much as these havelis are still privately owned.

The inner doors of Harlarka haveli, that has been restored and functions now The Legacy Mandawa hotel
The inner doors of Harlarka haveli, that has been restored and functions now The Legacy Mandawa hotel

Despite this, the Mandawa havelis tourism is slowly on the rise – largely owing to their spectacular artwork and designs. Given this, a few families have either sold their ancestral homes to well-known chains of hotels or hired contractors to restore them. These are now converted to heritage stays and in some form, are being revived.

Personally, I feel that the state of the Mandawa Havelis as compared to its neighboring Shekhawati towns like Nawalgarh is quite sad. This itself is paradoxical, given that there are more places to stay in Mandawa as compared to Nawalgarh. I guess, it is more of an onus of the owners of these heritage havelis than really the authorities. A good trust fund or heritage project should be undertaken to preserve these centuries-old abodes and their legacy.

Belgian glass windows, Burma teak wood pillars and murals in Athangudi Palace

Another under-rated open air gallery of mansions is in South India. Popularly called as the Chettinad region, this one has a tale similar to the Shekhawati region. Check these ghost mansions here.

Typical layout of Shekhawati havelis Mandawa

Most people usually head to Mandawa first and then explore the surrounding Shekhawati towns like Nawalgarh. I did too. However, given my experience and learning, it is best to start with Nawalgarh and then come to Mandawa. The reason – after visiting Podar Haveli museum in Nawalgarh, you will be in a better state to understand the various elements and layout of any Mandawa Haveli.

The inner courtyard of Seth Dayaram Dedraj Goenka haveli in Mandawa
The inner courtyard of Seth Dayaram Dedraj Goenka haveli in Mandawa

To help you understand better, I am sharing the key elements of a typical Shekhawati haveli. You can always read my earlier post on Nawalgarh museum for details.

  • Courtyard-styled homes – There are at least 2 courtyards in every home around which the rooms are built. The common courtyard is where the Baithak (drawing room), Diwan Khana (accounts office) and other offices are. This is where visitors are allowed and received. The inner courtyard is restricted to family members only. Some have a third courtyard called Nohra that is used for animal shelters and vehicle parking.
  • Most of the havelis have at least one storey
  • The Mukhya Dwar or the main door is usually a grand entrance. It is more of a gate that is not usually open. People enter through a smaller door in this main door called the Toran Darwaza.
  • Every inch of a typical Shekhawati haveli is covered with frescoes. There are three main types – Descriptive frescoes (elaborate scenes), Portraits and Decorative frescoes (fillers like flowers, plants etc).
The frescoed ceiling of Goenka Double Haveli in Mandawa
The frescoed ceiling of Goenka Double Haveli in Mandawa

It is usually the unique frescoes that lend a character to any haveli. In the next section on the best havelis to visit in Mandawa, I will be specifically pointing out the creative paintings that each of these homes has. Consider this as your treasure hunt clue – one that you will hunt for in the myriad frescoes that you will see. Trust me, it isn’t that easy.

Which are the best Mandawa Havelis to visit?

Mohan Saraf Haveli - one of the Shekhawati havelis Mandawa
Mohan Saraf Haveli – one of the Shekhawati havelis Mandawa

Mandawa is a very small village and you can actually finish all the tourist places in Mandawa in a single day. However, I recommend staying here and using it as a hub for visiting the other Shekhawati towns.

It is best to go on a walking tour of Mandawa as most of these havelis are located in tiny lanes. You can always hire a bicycle but in my opinion, given the short distances, going on foot is the best. You can go inside most of the Mandawa havelis by paying the caretaker a small token entry fee. This ranges from INR 100 – 150 per person, per haveli. There is no standard fee, you just have to negotiate.

Among the havelis to visit, these are the unmissable ones. Check them out along with the key frescoes or architectural elements that you would want to capture when visiting them.

Jhunjhunwala Haveli with its golden room

The frescoed Toran Door of Jhunjhunwala Haveli in Mandawa, Shekhawati
The frescoed Toran Door of Jhunjhunwala Haveli in Mandawa, Shekhawati

This was the first of the Mandawa attractions that I saw. Built-in the 19th century, this haveli is renowned for its Golden room – the frescoes in the room have been done using actual gold paint. I am told that around 3 kgs of gold was melted and used in this room which functioned as the Diwan Khana and Baithak. Sadly the haveli is in bad shape with many of its paintings faded. Even so, you will be able to spot many marvels.

The Golden room of Jhunjhunwala Haveli in Rajasthan
The Golden room of Jhunjhunwala Haveli in Rajasthan

The frescoes include the famous Ragmala style of paintings – a type of miniature art that depicts the mood of various ragas. This art represents poetry and music in the form of a painting. In the golden room of the Jhunjhunwala haveli, you will see numerous descriptive frescoes of Lord Krishna and his partner. Besides his story, there are many other Gods and Goddesses etched here. Look carefully and you will even spot a British soldier amidst the frescoed ceilings.

Don’t miss the colorful Belgian glass that was procured from the traders from Belgium in exchange for clothes and spices from Mandawa.

The golden paint that shines in the light on the frescoes inside the Golden room of this Mandawa Haveli
The golden paint that shines in the light on the frescoes inside the Golden room of this Mandawa Haveli
One of the Fresco Ragmala paintings inside the Golden haveli of Mandawa
One of the Fresco Ragmala paintings inside the Golden Haveli of Mandawa

Jhunjhunwala haveli has its share of gorgeous lattice windows with jharokhas and stunning doorways. The Toran door is made of an alloy of five metals. As our guide told us – “The door is resistant to rust and can be made to sparkle by using a mix of lemon juice and the native desert sand. Most havelis in Mandawa have such doors.

Frescoes in the inner courtyard of the Golden painted haveli of Mandawa
Frescoes in the inner courtyard of the Golden painted haveli of Mandawa

Though locked, our guide got the inner courtyard opened by the caretaker so that we could climb the upper floors and take in the fresco-covered mansion. From the terrace, you get a lovely view of Mandawa village and can even spot a few cenotaphs and havelis.

Insider Tip: The main courtyard and the golden room are locked and you will have to pay INR 100 per person to the caretaker. He stays in the third courtyard whose entrance is on the main road, next to the grand entrance of Jhunjhunwala haveli in Mandawa.

Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli in Mandawa

The frescoes that frame the beautiful jharokha windows of Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli
The frescoes that frame the beautiful jharokha windows of Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli

This 18th-century mansion was supposedly one of the key havelis of Mandawa. A massive two-storeyed mansion on one of the main lanes of Mandawa, is being converted into a 76-room hotel. Hopefully, that will breathe life into its fading frescoes.

Some of the key ones that you must try and spot include a steam train that runs along its exterior side walls ((see the small panel below the elephant in the picture below). In one of those steam engine frescoes, you will see a couple having their romantic tryst.  There are massive elephants just above it to symbolise luck along with horses that stand for power and camels that indicate love.  There is also a birthing scene as well as a fresco of a Greek man.

The frescoes on the side wall of the Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli
The frescoes on the side wall of the Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli

The haveli was being restored and renovated for its new role and hence, I could not visit inside. Hopefully, by the time you are reading this, it will be in better shape.

Mohan Saraf Haveli

A section of the Mohan Lal Saraf Haveli
A section of the Mohan Lal Saraf Haveli

This is yet another haveli that is going to be converted into a hotel. Close to the Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli, this one belonged to a liquor merchant. It has now been renamed as Joshi Haveli after the new owner who bought it.

Though I could not get inside the gate to get a closer look at the frescoes, I did spend some time admiring the pretty windows that were framed in carved wooden work. The entire window setting was set in pretty arches, each with a different colored glass. The tile work on the walls shimmered like mirrors or wait – maybe they were mirrors.

On the left hand niche, there is a scene from Ramayana while the center big fresco is a portrait of the Maharaja twirling his moustache
On the left hand niche, there is a scene from Ramayana while the center big fresco is a portrait of the Maharaja twirling his moustache

Zooming in the camera, I could see elaborate frescoes of royal kings stroking their mustaches and a warrior Rajput with his dagger. In the same line, there were a few mythological paintings like that of Ram and Lakshman shooting their golden deer. I sure would not have minded a closer look.

Murmuria Haveli – one of the key Mandawa attractions

The unusual Shekhawati frescoes of Murmuria Haveli
The unusual Shekhawati frescoes of Murmuria Haveli

Among all the havelis of Mandawa, the Murmuria haveli stands out in terms of the theme of its frescoes. It is a classic case of where East meets West. On one hand, you have frescoes of freedom fighters like Nehru, Bal Gandhar Tilak and Mahatma Gandhi, on the other hand you have King George V and British soldiers.

A depiction of Venice on Murmuria Haveli - one of the Mandawa tourist places
A depiction of Venice on Murmuria Haveli – one of the Mandawa tourist places
Portraits of the freedom fighters etched along the entrance of the Murmuria havelis
Portraits of the freedom fighters etched along the entrance of the Murmuria havelis

There are mythological paintings of Lord Krishna as well as scenes from Venice in Italy. I am told that the frescoes were done in the 1930s by a local artist – Balu Ram who blended the western themes with the Indian.

Murmuria haveli by itself, even without the fresco is not built in a typical Rajasthani style. While you will see the same grand entrance and the courtyard-style layout, when you observe the windows, you will spot the Victorian influence.  Definitely one of the most unusual of the Mandawa Havelis.

Goenka double haveli – the supposedly haunted haveli of Mandawa

The Goenka double Haveli - one of the best Mandawa havelis to visit
The Goenka double Haveli – one of the best Mandawa havelis to visit

There are two reasons why you should not miss out on the Goenka double haveli, which is right next to the Murmuria haveli. Firstly, this haveli is one massive one with two buildings that are mirror images of each other – right from its layout to its frescoes. Each of the buildings has its own grand entrance that leads to its own residential courtyard with its upper floors and rooms. Simply put, there are two mini havelis inside a compound.

Built by the Goenka family, each one is separately owned by the two brothers of the family. They have their own separate kitchens but are interconnected by a small passage within. That way, each one of them has their own privacy,

The spooky Goenka double haveli
The spooky Goenka double haveli

However, neither of them stay here and you can, in fact, enter the haveli on your right for a very spooky experience. This becomes your 2nd reason to add this to your list of Mandawa havelis to visit. Cobwebbed passages lead you to a solitary courtyard with a very creepy-looking tree. Creaky doors dare you to step inside and have a look at the rooms – trust me at twilight (which is when I went), they do give you shivers.

Vibrant frescoes inside Goenka double haveli in Mandawa
Vibrant frescoes inside Goenka double haveli in Mandawa
Queen Victoria smelling a rose
Queen Victoria smelling a rose

As if the effect is not enough, the caretaker has added her own spin to this spooky mansion by adding a mannequin head to one of the niches. I honestly, could not but applaud her creativity. The haveli is not haunted but because it has been closed, it has just become dusty and fits the image of a ghostly abode. It is kind of fun to go through it, climb its upper floors and spot some of its faded frescoes. While you are on this tour, try to look for Queen Victoria (or so depicted) smelling a rose.

The jharokha windows framed by the frescoes past the main entrance of the Goenka Double Haveli
The jharokha windows framed by the frescoes past the main entrance of the Goenka Double Haveli
The fresco showcasing a scene from Ramayana where Lord Ram injures Valli who is fighting Sugreeva
The fresco showcasing a scene from Ramayana where Lord Ram injures Valli who is fighting Sugreeva

Despite the dusty state of the haveli, it has some very vibrant frescoes, especially after you enter and walk through the small passage separating the inner courtyard and the main entrance. Even the wooden doors have beautiful carvings – that are enhanced further by its frescoes.

Insider Tips:  The keys for Goenka Double haveli, Seth Dayaram Dedraj Goenka Haveli and Murmuria haveli is with the same caretaker who resides in Hanuman Prasad Goenka Haveli, She will charge you a nominal entrance of INR 150 – 200 per person.

Seth Dayaram Dedraj Goenka Haveli

The hybrid fresco that is unique to this Shekhawati Haveli in Mandawa
The hybrid fresco that is unique to this Shekhawati Haveli in Mandawa

This merchant family deals with newspapers and runs buses between the various Shekhawati towns. The Haveli is right opposite Murmuria haveli and has a very unique fresco – a hybrid painting that when viewed from one side shows Indra riding his white elephant while from the other side, you can see Lord Shiva on his Nandi. Since I visited the place almost at sunset, I could not avoid the bright light falling on the fresco. Hopefully, you will get a better picture.

This one is near the caretaker’s home, so you can ask for her or his help in spotting it.

Bansidhar Newatia Haveli – one of the key Mandawa tourist attractions

Bansidhar Newatia Haveli that now houses SBI bank in Mandawa
Bansidhar Newatia Haveli that now houses SBI bank in Mandawa

Currently housing the State bank of India, this Shekhawati haveli in Mandawa stands out with depicts from the modern era. Built-in the 1920s, the artists decided to cover the walls and ceilings with the latest developments in those times. You can see the first flight by Wright brothers, a person on a telephone, and steam trains. There is also, a bird man as well as a man driving a European car.

You don’t have to go inside the bank to see these. They are present on the left wall of the bank.

The steam train depicted on the Shekhawati Haveli in Mandawa
The steam train depicted on the Shekhawati Haveli in Mandawa
Birdman fresco along with the modern age car on Bansidhar Newatia Haveli
Birdman fresco along with the modern age car on Bansidhar Newatia Haveli
More of the unique frescoes of the SBI haveli in Mandawa
More of the unique frescoes of the SBI haveli in Mandawa

Chokhani double haveli

The massive Chokhani Double Haveli in Mandawa
The massive Chokhani Double Haveli in Mandawa

There is one more Double haveli in Mandawa and this one will appear white-washed and well-maintained from the outside. Called the Chokhani Double haveli, this was built in the 20th century and is owned by two brothers. Quite like the Goenka double haveli that I have described earlier, this one has two mini havelis that are mirror images of each other. They are interconnected inside by a passage but otherwise have their own courtyards and rooms.

The two havelis that are mirror images of each other - Chokhani Double haveli
The two havelis that are mirror images of each other – Chokhani Double haveli

One of the Kolkata-based Chokhani brothers has renovated his side of the haveli and you will see brighter paintings that have been touched up. In contrast, the other one has faded old frescoes. It is sheer coincidence that at the time I visited this Mandawa haveli, the owner was around, getting repair work done. He kindly allowed us inside and proudly showcased his heritage home.

The lavish entrance of the renovated part of the Chokhani double haveli
The lavish entrance of the renovated part of the Chokhani double haveli

In the baithak area of his part of the haveli, there are pictures of his ancestors who originally built the place. The frescoes as well as the architecture are a blend of European and Rajasthani designs. On one had you will mythological scenes, on the other you will be treated to portraits of British soldiers in their Western attires.

The haveli has an open terrace from where you can clearly see its mirrored counterpart. Behind the haveli, there are some old cenotaphs that lie in disrepair. I am glad that I at least saw them from the terrace.

The refreshed walls of the Chokhani double haveli
The refreshed walls of the Chokhani double haveli

It is likely that this haveli is converted to a party or a marriage hall -or at least that is the plan that the owner had. He intends leasing it out for shoots and movie settings. Hence, it is likely you will be able to see it too, from inside. You will be easily able to identify this haveli when you enter Mandawa. It’s walls have large frescoes (now paintings) of elephants and horses on a battle field.

The Legacy by Machan

The beautiful courtyard of The Legacy Mandawa - a heritage haveli stay
The beautiful courtyard of The Legacy Mandawa – a heritage haveli stay

It is one thing to just see these magnificent Shekhawati havelis and another to stay in one. I was fortunate to have booked in The Legacy Mandawa by Machan which is a traditional haveli converted into a hotel. Originally built by the Harlalka family who dealt in spices, it now has 11 rooms available for a stay. The frescoes have been restored and the courtyards refreshed with fountains.

The outer courtyard is now a baithak with its open-air dining area while the inner courtyard is where the rooms are. You have the same narrow staircase leading you to the upper rooms, which is where I stayed.

Once an office, now a dining room with the portraits of the original owners
Once an office, now a dining room with the portraits of the original owners
The paintings that have gold paint in The Legacy Mandawa
The paintings that have gold paint in The Legacy Mandawa

One of the key things to see here is in their mini dining room. You have portraits of the original owners as well as few of Gods and Goddess like Lakshmi and Saraswati. The Goddess paintings have some gold paint on them.

Also, the niche over the inner courtyard door, has the typical Shekhawati frescoes in round circles. In most other Mandawa havelis that I have seen, these are just portraits. In case of The Legacy Mandawa, they sport scenes from the life of Lord Krishna.

Even if you are not staying here, drop by to see the place and grab a cup of coffee.

Other places to visit in Mandawa, Shekhawati

Abandoned cenotaphs in Mandawa
Abandoned cenotaphs in Mandawa

It isn’t just the Shekhawati havelis of Rajasthan that you will see in Mandawa. The other tourist places in Mandawa include a temple, a well and even a castle. There are a few cenotaphs as well but they are either in complete disarray or are locked up by the families. Either way, here are the three other attractions in Mandawa.

Harlalka Well

Harlarka Well - one of the places to visit in Mandawa
Harlalka Well – one of the places to visit in Mandawa

You would have heard this name – Harlalka when I described The Legacy – the heritage haveli turned into a hotel. I am not sure if it is the family that built this community well in Mandawa village or another. However, whoever it is, did an amazing job. Initially, when I saw the well, I thought that it was a cenotaph or a community center. The latter turned out to be true to some extent and I will explain how.

The big pulley system that was operated using camels at the Harlarka Well
The big pulley system that was operated using camels at the Harlarka Well

Given the low water tables, the community well was built really deep – to the extent that it was humanly not always possible to reach that deep. Though there were stairs to the bottom, the water supply was pulled up using a large pulley (the tall minarets) and a pair of camels that walked down a steep ramp. The water was regularly stored in the reservoirs built around the well.

The smaller stepwells around the larger well system
The smaller stepwells around the larger well system

The canopied enclosures that you will see around the well were seating areas for the villagers or travelers who might have passed by on the Silk Route. There is smaller stepwells that double up as bathing and washing areas. There was a separate one for the men and the women – the latter being a little covered.. Naturally, the Harlalka Well became a community center of sorts in Mandawa.

Adalaj ni Vav near Ahmedabad
Adalaj ni Vav near Ahmedabad

Rajasthan and Gujarat are known for its elaborate well system. Vavs as they are called in Gujarat were built for travelers as well as residents. They offered shelter and a space for gathering. One such amazing one is right in Ahmedabad and has quite a melancholic tale attached to it. Check it out.

Mandawa Castle

Inside Castle Mandawa - a heritage fortress and now a stay in this Shekhawati village
Inside Castle Mandawa – a heritage fortress and now a stay in this Shekhawati village

Mandawa Castle is currently known as the most popular and luxury hotel in Mandawa, Shekhawati. However, that wasn’t what it was earlier. Built by Thakur Nawal Singh in 1735, this is a mini fortress built to maintain peace and calm in the Silk Route city.

The place has over 85 rooms and still has its original antiquities. You can see the cannons kept around the place. They say that interiors have been inspired by Sheesh Mahal or the mirror palaces of Jaipur and it has its own share of beautiful carvings and frescoes centered around the life of Lord Krishna.

Cannon inside Mandawa fort
Cannon inside Mandawa fort

One can tour this for free if they are staying there but for the others, there is a charge of INR 250 per person. Truthfully speaking, I chose to avoid it for I was already overwhelmed with the mansions and their art.  Maybe on another day, I might have gone ahead and spent the amount. For now, I was content by exploring its exteriors, arched gateways and catching a glimpse of it from the various havelis of Mandawa.

Mandawa Market

Shekhawati Miniature Art - one of the things to shop for in Mandawa Village
Shekhawati Miniature Art – one of the things to shop for in Mandawa Village

It is not a big market but shopping in Mandawa can be fun. Check out their handicrafts store for the wooden Shekhawati furniture and artifacts or try their colorful jewelry and the bandhini (tie and dye) clothes. Most of all, stop at the Shekhawati miniature art shops and carry home a memoir of the fresco paintings – from framed paintings to postcards. There are a variety available and the artisans are more than happy to explain the authentic art of miniature paintings.

Patchwork textiles - a specialty of Mandawa
Patchwork textiles – a specialty of Mandawa

The Mandawa market is also, known for its patchwork dhurries and bedspreads. There are also, metal handicrafts available here. Just make sure you bargain well – though you will definitely find the prices lower than the city shopping in Rajasthan.

Paardarshi Shivling mandir Mandawa

The see-through crystal Shiva Linga at the Paardarshi Shivling Mandir in Mandawa
The see-through crystal Shiva Linga at the Paardarshi Shivling Mandir in Mandawa

Paardarshi means see-through. This is a very unique temple that has a spastic Shivlinga (crystal or transparent one) that was established here by one of the Mandawa families. It is over 200 years old though the structure around it is well maintained and renovated.  The new structure has this gorgeous prayer area with a high ceiling – different from the otherwise frescoed vaults that you would see in the Mandawa havelis.

Beautiful interiors of the Shivlinga temple in Mandawa
Beautiful interiors of the Shivlinga temple in Mandawa

What I loved about the place besides its mystical Shivalinga was the serenity. It is a perfect place to spend a moment or two and let your frazzled senses with the haveli hopping cool off. The green lawn of the temple has small seats and if you are lucky like me, you will find peacocks walking around. Definitely a great way to end your trail of Mandawa Havelis.

Mandawa Havelis Map

Here a map of Mandawa havelis and the other places to visit that I have described in this guide. You can use this to embark on your own self-guided tour of Mandawa or keep it as checklist for your visit.

Should you hire a local guide for your Haveli Hopping tour in Mandawa?

While it is not very difficult to embark on this Mandawa Haveli hopping tour on your own, I would advise hiring a guide. The local guide will be able to point out the key frescoes as well as other points of interest better and also, give you a good explanation of the place. Given that they are locals, they know the caretakers of these havelis better and can help get the place unlocked faster. (If you don’t know where the caretaker or the keys are, you might end up waiting).

You can get these guides through your hotel desk. They are easily available and can speak multiple languages – English, Hindi and French are the most common. You can even hire one guide to cover not just Mandawa but the other villages that you might want to visit from Mandawa. The local guide charges in Mandawa range from INR 500 for half a day to INR 1200 for a full day of sightseeing. The entrance fees are charged at actuals.

Here is the number of the guide Shikandar, who took me around Mandawa, Fatehpur, Ramgarh and Mansar – +91 9799988494.

Other places to visit near Mandawa

The Podar haveli museum Nawalgarh
The best start to your Shekhawati tour is Nawalgarh Rajasthan

As explained to you, though Mandawa is just a small village, it is a hub to visit other Shekhawati Villages. It has good hotels for your to stay and move around for your painted villages tour. Here are some other Shekhawati towns that you can do as a daytrip from Mandawa. The day trip can actually cover 2-3 of these towns in one go.

  • Dundlod – This is just 20 km from Mandawa. You can visit the Dundlod fort, Goenka haveli and the Goenka cenotaph in this town.
  • Ramgarh Shekhawati – 27 km from Mandawa, this Shekhawati town is full of frescoed cenotaphs.
  • Fatehpur –The most popular attractions of Fatehpur include Mohan Saraf haveli and Le Nadine haveli. It is located at 26 km from Mandawa.
  • Mahansar – This is around 25 km from Mandawa and besides the havelis and a grand cenotaph, has a golden haveli -rather shop. It is made in pure gold paint.
  • Nawalgarh – one of the biggest hub of Shekhawati havelis is just 30 km from Mandawa. This town has better-preserved havelis. You can start your Shekhawati journey from this town with the Podar Haveli Museum and then do the other havelis of Nawalgarh. It is best to give this time a complete half-day of sightseeing.
  • Churu – This is around 42 km from Mandawa, towards Delhi. It is yet another town that is filled with the frescoed havelis of Shekhawati. Some of the most popular ones here include the 1100 room Surana haveli, Malji ka Kamra and Kanhaiya Lal Bagla Haveli.

Practical tips for visiting Mandawa Village

Go slow on your Shekhawati haveli hopping tour in Mandawa, Rajasthan
Go slow on your Shekhawati haveli hopping tour in Mandawa, Rajasthan

I have put together some practical tips that you should keep in mind when you are on your Mandawa Havelis tour. These will help make your sightseeing in Mandawa better and definitely more satisfying.

  • If you are planning more than a day’s trip in the Shekhawati region, you might want to consider Mandawa as your nerve center and stay option. There are a lot of good hotels here as compared to the other Shekhawati towns. Also, the distance to the other towns is manageable as day trips.
  • Though Mandawa can be a hub, do not miss out on Nawalgarh. In fact, if possible start with Nawalgarh’s Podar haveli. Read this post as to why I recommend this.
  • I highly recommend hiring a local guide to tour the Shekhawati region.
  • After some time, the frescoes of the various havelis can get really overwhelming. So, go slow and take breaks between two or three havelis. Grab a snack along the way. Consider this akin to smelling coffee while you attempt to buy perfume.
  •  Carry some cash for the entrances to the haveli. Some of them accept UPI payments but most don’t.
  • If possible, hire a car in Mandawa for your day-trips. Relying on public transport will definitely eat up some of your time.

FAQs about Mandawa Havelis tour

What is the best way to reach Mandawa?

The closest airport to Mandawa is Jaipur at 170 km. It takes around 3 hours by road to get to Mandawa from Jaipur. You can either hire one of the self-drive vehicles or rent a cab from Jaipur. There are numerous public buses that ply between Jaipur and Mandawa throughout the day. These are however, not direct buses and Mandawa is just a stop on the way.

From Jaipur, if you wish to travel by train, then you can either opt to go to Nawalgarh or Jhunjhunu railway station. Both these are around 30 km from Mandawa and will require you to either catch a public bus or hire a cab.

Delhi on the other hand is 255 km from Mandawa and it takes around 5 hours to reach here by road. This is yet another option for an airport.

What is the best time to visit Mandawa in Rajasthan?

I would recommend visiting Mandawa between September to February when the temperatures are slightly lower and it is easy to walk around the town. Avoid the summer months – April to June when the temperatures go over 40 degrees Celsius.

Where can you stay in Mandawa?

Being a Shekhawati hub, you will find lots of hotels in Mandawa. A lot of these are heritage homes turned into stays. You can opt for mid-priced budget stays like The Legacy Mandawa (where I stayed) or Mandawa Haveli. Castle Mandawa is another popular place but is at the higher end of the budget.

How much time do you need to see the Mandawa Havelis?

Mandawa can be easily done in a day. However, if you wish to visit the other Shekhawati towns and their havelis, keep aside another day in Mandawa. So, in total, that would be 2 days.

What to eat when in Mandawa?

Grab an authentic Rajasthani meal with Dal Baati Churma in Mandawa

Mandawa has amazing Rajasthani food. You should definitely try the Daal Baati Churma at the Mandawa Pavilion restaurant. This dish in particular has to be ordered in advance. Our guide had called them ahead of time and arranged for it. Of course, there are other Rajasthani delicacies on their menu that you can order on the spur.

Mona Lisa roof top restaurant and Monika restaurant are two other places that are highly recommended. They are multi-cuisine restaurants and you can choose from Western food to Indian food here.  

Before you go, pin this

Mandawa havelis shekhawati
Shekhawati havelis mandawa
Havelis of mandawa guide

You might also like these posts –

Show some love and share the post

Leave a Comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.