Pretty landscapes cruised past my window Causing my gasps to be caught in my throat. Then came those Basgo monastery ruins Replacing those gasps with a racing pulse - like an antidote.
I stared at the pretty landscapes as our van tackled the curves to Alchi Monastery in Ladakh. My gasps at the stunning scenery had got stuck in my throat for each view turned out to be better than the one I left behind. Until I saw strange peaks that looked like turrets of a castle. Rubbing my eyes, I focused again – only to realize that I was indeed staring at the crumbling walls of an erstwhile castle – atop a hill. My breath released and my pulse raced as it always does when I see the ruins. Basgo – a large sign on the mountains announced the name of the village. And that was my first glimpse at the Basgo Monastery and Castle.
The present-day Basgo village was a bustling hub in the yesteryears with a palace and monastery atop a hill. There was little else that my research prior to my trip told me. However, the one thing that caught my attention was that this was declared as one of the 100 endangered heritage places in the world by UNESCO. The Indiana Jones in me was keen to find out why and the first glimpse definitely did not disappoint me. Scouting it in was like a stamp to this listing. I am sure that by the time you explore it with me, you too, will agree that Basgo Monastery is one of the key places to visit in Ladakh.
Contents
- 1 History of Basgo Monastery Ladakh
- 2 The first glimpse of the ruins of Basgo Khar (fort)
- 3 Chamba Lhakhang at Basgo Monastery
- 4 Serzang temple in Basgo village
- 5 Chamchung Temple at Basgo Gompa
- 6 The remains of Basgo Castle
- 7 What is the best way to reach Basgo Monastery?
- 8 What is the best time to visit Basgo Monastery Ladakh?
- 9 Where is the best place to stay in Basgo?
- 10 Where can I eat in Basgo?
- 11 How much are the entry fees to Basgo monastery?
- 12 Travel Tips
- 13 Booking Resources
History of Basgo Monastery Ladakh
With the kind of ruins that I saw, I expected Basgo history to go back to the 10th century or so. Interestingly, these aren’t so old. They date back to the 15th century. This early part of the Basgo history is mentioned in the Ladakhi chronicles. It is associated with Raspa Bum who was based in Shey. The man was a patron of religious institutions and commissioned several buildings. As a part of a settlement with his brother, he came to own the area around present-day Basgo village. The chronicles say that he commissioned a temple fitting the description of the present-day Chamba temple of Basgo.
Raspa Bumde began setting up Basgo village as his center. It was his grandson – Bhagan who further, contributed to the development of Basgo as a center of power and trade. It was around the same time period that the Mughals came into India.
Owing to its strategic location, Ladakh was constantly attacked by the Muslim rulers of Central Asia. The constant wars divided Ladakh into two major kingdoms, each ruled by different kings. The North Ladakh which included Leh was ruled by King Takbumde and the southern part by King Takpabum. The Leh king used his power to usurp Basgo.
Eventually, the original king from Basgo – Bhagan fought back and got his kingdom back the Leh King. He took on the name Namgyal – which means triumphant. He started fortifying Ladakh and his dynasty kept hold for many centuries after that. His descendants – Dharmaraj Jamyang Namgyal and Dharmaraj Singay Namgyal are the ones who are credited to have built the Basgo monastery and castle. One of the Buddha images built by King Jamyang is in fact, a funerary for the Father King.
Also read Leh Palace - the residence of the Namgyals
The first glimpse of the ruins of Basgo Khar (fort)
The crumbling walls of Basgo stood tall over the village, setting off light streaks – almost as if they were highlighting the best features of the ruins. It was easy to see how formidable the castle might have looked in its heydays. Built at 300 meters over the Basgo village on the already tall mountains of Ladakh, I am sure the enemies would have thought twice before attempting to raid it.
The brown earthen walls of the erstwhile Basgo castle were now in shambles with some parts being indistinguishable from the surrounding mountains. I could see only parts of them and most of them visible owing to them standing solo. Frankly, it is only those tiny window holes on the watchtowers that help you separate them from their surroundings. The main structure that stood out was the Basgo Monastery. They were a cluster of white buildings enclosed by the ancient walls. As I understand, the white too is a recent addition in a bid to restore and preserve what is left of Basgo fort.
A familiar frenzy filled me as I walked to the steps of the monastery. The excitement of finding hidden alleys and treasures got my adrenaline high. I am sure my eyes looked like how Tom’s would (of the Tom and Jerry fame) when he did speed reading. I scanned the lone board at the entrance of Basgo Castle for its history.
There were just three living shrines remaining of Basgo Monastery – the Chamba Lhakhang, the Serzang Temple and the Chamchung Lakhang. Each one of them had some fascinating features. From where I stood, I decided to tackle the higher temple first. And off, I went to discover the Chamba Lhakhang.
Chamba Lhakhang at Basgo Monastery
A sign told me that I needed to buy tickets to visit the Basgo Gompa but where was not clear. Following a flight of vertical stairs to the Chamba temple, I reached the top. Yet, I still could not see a window. However, what I encountered were some stunning views of the ruins around. Circling around, I attempted to capture them all and finally landed back in front of the open temple door.
A 2-storied statue of Maitreya Buddha (fifth incarnation of Shakyamuni) stands in the center of the Chamba temple Ladakh. When you enter, you can only see the body and hands of this idol. It was only when you get closer, you see the serene face of the idol.
The Maitreya Buddha at the Chamba Temple is made out of clay. It was made by King Drakspa Bumde in the 1490s. However, it was King Jamyang who added the surrounding color of the temple by building it and adding colorful murals to it. From the ceiling to the walls, there was so much to grasp here.
Along the walls are idols of Buddha. And even in these, I spotted one on either side of the main Buddha that looked like a standing miniature of the main idol. The same face, the crown and the colors. My guess is that this might have been a prototype before the large one was built. However, with no guide or signs or even people around, I could not be sure.
Upon my exit, I chose to quickly meander to the surrounding buildings. I found plenty of doorless balconies, interesting walls structures and closed doors.
Serzang temple in Basgo village
The other two Maitreyi temples in Basgo monastery Ladakh are located in what seems to be the main entrance of the palace. At the gate, you will find something like a crossroad. One temple is at the end of the narrow passageway on the left and the other one straight down.
As I made my way towards the Serzang temple, my fellow travelers urged me to hurry as the monk was waiting for us and was ready to close the temple. That was like adding fire to my raging fuel and though there were interesting sights outside the temple, I blindsided them and rushed in through the gate towards the waiting monk at the Serzang temple.
A small cute, old door led me into a dimly lit shrine where I encountered yet another gigantic idol of a Maitreya Buddha. The only difference was that this was slightly smaller and the entire statue was visible from the entrance.
This Maitreya Buddha in the Serzang Temple is made of Copper. This was started by Jamyang Namgyal but completed by his son. While this was one distinct feature of this temple, it isn’t the only one. The temple is home to sacred books of Buddhism like Kangur and Stangur, written in 5 precious colors like Gold and Silver.
The monk around was not aware of where the books were for his superior was at Hemis Monastery, attending the Naropa festival. He did say that the texts were still around. He also, told us this temple was used by the royal family exclusively. That actually explains the location of the temple. In its heydays, one was required one to go through the various sections of the palace.
As I waited for the rest of my group to finish examining the small temple, I played truant by climbing the narrow stairs and crude stones to see if I could find a treasure of my own. And I did – by way of these ancient windows that might have been a part of the Basgo castle or the narrow flight of stairs that might have led to some room.
Chamchung Temple at Basgo Gompa
It was time for the last temple at Basgo. This one was unique not just for the lovely Maitreya Buddha statue but for the fact that it was originally a Mosque. It was built by a Balti prince Gyal Khatun but was converted to a Buddhist temple later when he converted. It is that which possibly explains the manner in which this was built – almost as if the traditional dome of the mosque was changed to the spire of the temple.
The other interesting thing about the temple for me was that on the walls were images from Tantric Buddhism – symbolic of the destruction of evil. Quite unlike the previous two shrines.
The shrine was a small one, enough to just let two or three people within it. However, it was the location that made it important. It was literally perched on the edge of a cliff and as you take a walk along its walls, you get some magnificent views of Basgo Castle and the Basgo Village.
The remains of Basgo Castle
Empty walls, fallen rooms, glimpses of the staircases in between, and what might have been the narrow passages between the rooms – there was little left of the Basgo Palace. No one is allowed within the rubble that is left but my heart still yearned to walk there. I just felt as if there was something being missed. It was the same feeling that I got when I glimpsed the Jal Mahal in Jaipur from far.
With a stone on my heart, I turned around and walked out of the Basgo Monastery. It is then I noticed the stacked stones that people left behind for Good luck. The same ones were found around Pangong Lake. That made me realize that people did still visit here and the temples were living. The disrepair makes you think otherwise. As I understood from the lone signboard that I had seen earlier, the Hemis Monastery is in charge of Chamba temple while the Serzang is being maintained by the Basgo village.
You might want to read this about the gorgeous Hemis Monastery
There have been active steps taken to restore and protect what is left of the monastery but there is more that needs to be done. I hope that someday, there is a path that leads me to the incomplete scouting that I have done at the Basgo monastery. However, till then, I leave you with a hope that you too, found it interesting enough to add it to your list of must-visit places in Leh.
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What is the best way to reach Basgo Monastery?
Basgo is 40 km from Leh, enroute to Alchi Monastery. Leh is accessible by road and air. Assuming you are in Leh, you can follow this route to get to Basgo Gompa.
Leh – Nimmoo – Basgo village
You can find a cab to get here from the Leh market. You can even avail a shared cab from here to Basgo.
However, if you are coming into Leh from Kargil, you can stop by at Basgo on the way. For that, you can take this route –
Kargil – Mulbekh – Saraks – Khangral – Lamayuru – Khalsi- Khaltse – Saspul – Basgo.
The distance on this route is 170 km and it will take you around 4 hours to reach Basgo.
What is the best time to visit Basgo Monastery Ladakh?
The Basgo Monastery timings are from Sunrise to Sunset. It is open on all days.
In terms of season, you will find the period between May to September most comfortable to visit Ladakh. Even in this season, you will find the place cold. Winters naturally, are really harsh. For more details on Ladakh, you should read my Travel Guide to Ladakh
Where is the best place to stay in Basgo?
The closest accommodation to Basgo village is in Alchi village. However, the options here are quite limited. You will find better options in Leh. Check the booking resources.
There is no hotel or homestay in Basgo.
Where can I eat in Basgo?
There are no fancy restaurants around Basgo monastery. You will find a few shops and local eateries in Basgo village. You can try the local Thukpa and get some hot Maggi here.
How much are the entry fees to Basgo monastery?
Basgo monastery does not have a singular fee. Each temple charges a nominal fee of INR 40 per adult.
Travel Tips
- Read through this Leh Ladakh travel guide for planning you trip to this region. Trust me, it does need some special attention.
- There are no cafes or rest rooms at the Basgo monastery. The closest ones would be in the Basgo Village
- Please cover your shoulders and legs when you visit the Maitreyi temples of Basgo monastery
- Photography is permitted in the shrines. However, ensure that you do not use flash.
- Wear hiking shoes if possible as the steps and the path along the Basgo ruins is quite uneven.
- Speaking of steps, some of them, especially to Chamba temple is quite high. Take your time climbing them.
Booking Resources
- Booking.com has a few listings for hotels in Alchi . In case you are looking at booking a Leh hotel, you can click through this link for the same.
- For any of your travel needs or general shopping, consider using Amazon through this link.
Disclaimer: This article includes affiliate links. This means that at no cost to you, I will receive a small commission if you purchase through my link. Thank you for supporting me with this
Popularly referred to as a Restless Ball of Energy. My Mom refuses to entertain my complaints about my equally restless daughter & assures my husband that I was born with a travel bug.
I am a Post-Graduate in Marketing by qualification and a travel blogger by passion. Besides travel, I enjoy photography and if you don’t find me at my desk, I would be out playing badminton or swimming or just running. I believe in planning for every long weekend through the year. And when I cannot travel physically, I travel virtually through this travel blog. My travel stories have also, got published on various websites and magazines including BBC Travel, Lonely Planet India and Jetwings. I have recently published my first book – When Places Come Alive – a collection of stories that are based on legends, landscapes, art and culture of a place which is available in both ebook and paperback format.
The history lessons and photos make for a captivating post Ami. Well done.
Thank you Ryan. Glad you like it
Ladakh look so beautiful! There is so much to see and to do. It looks like a really beautiful drive. You captured awesome pictures on your travel trip. Thanks for sharing a beautiful post with us.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the post. The drive indeed was fantastic. Cheers
Wow! Loved the ruins of Bhagso. It looks like an ant hill. Murals are also intriguing.
Indeed. They do look like ant hills, albeit giant ones.
Stunning photos! I know of Ladakh, but never made it out there, now I feel like I really missed out. Will need to make it a priority when I’m next in India!
It is so different from the rest of India. You should definitely come back for it.
I just took another trip to ALchi through this stunning post, Ami! Love your style of writing. It is as if, I am talking to you in person!
Thank you Madhurima. That compliment made my day!
I cannot believe the Meidtra Buddha is made out of clay. It is so colourful for dating back to 1490. I love this part of India and the mountains and prayer flags.
This part of India is serene and just so beautiful. You should definitely check it out and specially visit the ruins. THey are just amazing
When I first saw the photo I also imagined this site must be much older — surprising that it’s from the 1600’s. But it’s amazing that even that long ago they were able to build monasteries in such remote places. I’d love to explore both for the history/culture and for the scenery!
Indeed, Ladakh is perfect for those who love heritage and landscapes. It has so much for everyone. I hope you can make it here and see these ruins for yourself.
I can imagine your pulse racing when you got the first view of Basgo Monastery on the hill. I might wonder how we would actually get up there. I agree that they look older than the Mughal time (since that is the same period as the Taj Mahal). It is sorta fascinating to see the earth reclaiming the walls. Although sad to be losing the site. So glad you did not miss finding the amazing room with the 2 storied buddha. The copper buddha was also an interesting find. Definitely a great site to visit.
Thank you Linda. I hope you can come see this for yourself for they are even more amazing in reality. Am sure you too, will have your pulse racing. 🙂
Wow, that is some absolutely incredible scenery. I mean, that backdrop around the Ruins of Basgo is worth a visit alone. It’s great to read about places and sites that I know little to nothing about, and to discover just how much more I need to explore. Great find.
Thanks Drew. I was so glad I found them myself. This one definitely is rare and amazing.
The third photo down is so captivating – it took my breath away. I love how Basgo looks like ruins, but is actually living and breathing and still active after all these years. I like the addition of the whitewash, as it makes it stand out against the barren landscape beyond. And those shrines are so colourful and beautiful. I would love to visit if in Ladakh.
I see that you are already captivated with it. I am sure you will love it when you actually see it. Plan a trip to India soon. It sure is worth the visit – Basgo and Ladakh in general.
third photo took my breath away and nice post
Thank you. Glad you liked it.
These pictures are breathtaking! And they make me want to visit Ladakh and Basgo right away. I am also quite interested in Buddhism and the temples in Basgo look so colorful and peaceful at the same time. Which time of the year would be best to visit the region?
Anytime between June to Sept is good as it gets really cold after. Plan a visit for next year. Cheers
The history and photos are incredible. I’ve never had the opportunity to visit a monastery but they have always fascinated me. Basgo looks like an interesting spot to explore if I ever make it to India.
Oh yes, this is offbeat India and I hope you get to see it for yourself. Thanks for the lovely comment, Tonya
You’re right, looking at your pictures, I also would’ve imagined this castle and monastery to go further back than the 17th century. Such a pity that it is an endangered world heritage site! I love how the white monastery stands in the brown backdrop and your captures of the crumbling brown earthen walls of the castle against the mountainous backdrops are pretty fantastic!
Thank you Medha. It sure is an unusual site. The landscape, the unusual history and its mystic aura….all amazing.
Woah what an incredible place! From a distance, you would just think the ruins were part of the rocky mountain face. It blends in! And then to go inside to see the shrines..what a vibrant contrast. I would have thought they were much older too. What a magnificent spot. I do hope they can repair and protect it for the future.
Yes, I hope there is some restoration that takes place. This place is too cool to be lost. Thanks for the lovely comment, Juliette.
Wow! Basgo ruins and castle looks like it’s out of a fantasty movie. I can picture it in a scene in Lord of the Rings! I’m amazed this gem isn’t more well-known around the world. I hope they continue to preserve this unique and beautiful treasure for future generations to enjoy.
I hope they do. It does need a fair bit of preservation. Thanks a ton for stopping by, Christina
I can totally understand why you were so thrilled to visit, Basgo monastery remains look utterly stunning, both the crumbling earth ones and the ones more recently painted in white. The way they seem to almost grow from the rocks is amazing!
The whole scenario looks so gorgeous. I would love to visit it again. And I hope you too get a chance to see it. Thanks for stopping by
The monastery is in wonderful surroundings, I really do hope to be in this region soon. I am hoping a trip to India might be in the making next year so fingers cross that I will be there. The photos of this post are totally stunning. 🙂
Thanks Danik. Glad you liked the pics. And fingers crossed for your trip here.
Basgo does indeed look like something from an Indiana Jones film. I’m particularly impressed by the vibrant colours of the idols in the temples and of the Tantric Buddhist wall art. Stunning. What a beautiful place
Thanks Fiona. It is quite an unusual and special place. You should try and visit it.
I really love your energy and willpower to see everything (which is what I sometime lack. LOL). But kidding aside, your exploration of the temple has really peaked my interest with the monastery! How splendid the Buddha are and so colourful!
Thank you Marvi. That is so motivating and encouraging. As for this place, trust me, you will find the explorer in you come out.
Such jaw-dropping scenery in such a special place. I hope it gets funding for the maintenance of the buildings it would be such a shame if it were left to ruin.
Fingers crossed for that. I hope people visit it and they get encouraged to get some funding.
That is certainly a thrilling adventure. It sounds like more time would’ve made the visit easier. I’m with you though and would’ve been rushing through, playing truant, to see as much as possible. Beautiful place. Definitely will add to my destinations wish list.
Dont know about easier but it sure would have helped me explore a few nooks that I somehow feel I have missed 😉 Thanks for stopping by Elaine.
The ruins of Basgo stand so silently and yet a thousand stories seem to emanate from those very ruins. An experience not easily described in words. The place is really unique in Ladakh and has a distinct mystical aura that is so riveting. It would have been great if we could have been able to see the sunset from these ruins.
The sunset would have been amazing. Pity we could not stay. Someday…hopefully. Thanks for stopping by
Wow so beautiful this castle looks like a Fantasy movie, I really do hope to be in this region soon
I am sure you will like it when you visit it. Thanks for stopping by
It’s surprising how relatively new these ruins are! They are beautiful though and the remains of the castle gainst the greenery is stunning too. Great travel tip reminder about dressing appropriately by the way! It’s easy to overlook that one especiall during summer when it’s hot and you just want to wear short shorts.
Trust me, here the weather is so cold through the year that shorts might not work at all. However, people do tend to bare their shoulders – that is where you need to keep the dress code in mind. Thanks for stopping by, Jas
Loving that scenery! truly badass pictures and one for my bucket list! ;D
Thank you Norman. Glad you added it to your list.
Wow, your photo of the painted walls and ceilings in the temple is so stunning. It’s got so many dimensions I don’t know where to look. I love the Chamchung Temple, it almost looks like a small boat on the water with that blue sky surrounding it.
Those paintings and the history here totally had me in awe. Thanks for stopping by Alice.
This is interesting. Happy to know that it has been declared as one of the UNESCO sites. I can just imagine how fascinating and exciting it can be to explore the ruins. Thank you for sharing your experience. Enjoyed reading your post.
Thanks Clarice. Discovering it was a huge high for me.
I always dream of a holiday in Ladakh, but have never got around to it. Now, this post makes me firm about a long holiday there. The location is so surreal. And the monastery rings of some stories that only the stones can tell. It’s a very fascinating place.
Thanks Ambica. I hope I can go back again and soon. I have major Ladakh longing.
It definitely is an unbelievable site. How fascinating that it was settled as such all those years ago. I can see why it’s an UNESCO World Heritage site. Hopefully it will be protected for all the years to come.
Fingers crossed that it stays this way. Thanks Renee.
The setting of Basgo village, the fort and the monastery is spectacular. And I love the colorful Buddhist temples. Scrambling around the ruins of the fort also looks like great fun!
The whole landscape with those ruins is surreal. You should see it to believe it. Thanks for the lovely comment Natascha.
As I was reading your post, I could not help but relate it to life. UNESCO World Heritage sites such as this somehow leaves a metaphor to spectators. You get destroyed but you get to rebuild and your ruins are the very thing that would make you beautiful to the eyes of others. The shots are wow!
What a poignant way to put the experience. I agree with you on this. Thanks Trisha for stopping by
I can imagine your excitement as you saw the Basgo Monastery ruins after your last turn. They look stunning. Somehow it reminded me of the Native American’s cliff dwellings because of the materials used. I hope the government can keep it for long like this.
I suppose that is how they made things back then. I hope you can see this one in person, Umiko. Thanks for stopping by
Basgo Monastery in Ladakh looks like some ancient fairy tale. The ruins are stunningly beautiful against the backdrop of the majestic mountains. I would love to visit it, as Ladakh is one of my dream destinations. I was in the Shimla area and Dharamsala area. But haven’t reached Ladakh yet. It’s great that you provide so many useful tips on how to get there. It’s great to know that it’s only 40 km from Leh.
I really hope you can make it to Ladakh next time. You will love it Agnes