Have you ever experienced the silence of land - when the only sounds that you hear are fluttering prayer flags, the call of the birds, the tinkle of the prayer bells and the soothing calm of gushing water? A silence - so strong that you automatically lower your voice, even if you are gasping at the unbelievable beauty of the land. The endless green valley bound by black mountains and only highlighted by the colors of flowers. It might sound fairytale-like. But I did find this in Phobjikha Valley of Central Bhutan.
Phobjikha Valley was not a part of my original itinerary. It happened with a spontaneous change of plans while at Punakha. With an extra day in hand, we chose to do a day trip to Phobjikha Valley. Little did we know that this would turn out to be the best part of our Bhutan Trip. A highlight that will make us happy that we did what we did and a tad bit sad for we could not stay longer. Without much ado, let me share my experience in Phobjikha Valley so that you don’t make the mistake of not including it in your Bhutan itinerary.
Contents
- 1 About Phobjikha Valley
- 2 First Stop: Gangteng Monastery in Phobjikha Valley
- 3 Lunch at Dewachan Hotel
- 4 Walking through Phobjikha Valley
- 5 Black Necked Crane Information Center, Phobjikha Valley
- 6 Returning back to Punakha
- 7 Other things to do in Phobjikha Valley
- 8 Additional Travel Tips
- 9 Booking Resources
About Phobjikha Valley
Phobjikha Valley is actually a glacial valley at an altitude of 3000 m above sea level. It is located in Central Bhutan and is quite a sparsely populated area. It borders the Jigme Singye Wangchuck National park that hosts exotic wildlife like the red fox, leopards, wild boars and more.
The key occupation of the villages here is agriculture. You will only find turnips and potatoes growing in the fields. The valley is also, home to nomads and yak herders.
The Valley has two rivers – Nakay Chhu and Gay Chhu. These have an interesting legend connected to them. Nakay Chhu and Gay Chhu were actually supposed to be a snake and boar respectively. They decided to have a race. If Nakay Chhu won it, then rice would be grown in Phobjikha Valley but if Gay Chhu won, it would never be. As fate had it, Nakay Chhu lost his way and meandered across Phobjikha. If the legend is to be believed – the land in the bowl-shaped Phobjikha Valley is unfit for rice cultivation.
Besides its inherent beauty, the Phobjikha Valley is famous for two things – the first being Gangtey Monastery and the other being the Black Necked Cranes. What about them – you got to read on further.
Drive from Punakha to Phobjikha Valley
Our original Punakha plan was to head out to the Pho Chhu river for river rafting. However, the plan flopped as we found that the river rafting was a little over-budget. Within 15 minutes, we hopped into the car – enroute to Phobjikha. Suchit, our cabbie told us that it was a decision that we would not regret. Somehow, something told me – he was right.
Maybe it was the mountains that peeked through the green pines or the gushing river that ran beside us in the valley or the rhododendron corners, every tiny thing seemed so beautiful. There was no need to stop for these just followed you everywhere. Frankly if one had to stop, you would much rather be walking for every meter was just a new scene.
The only brief stop that we made was to capture the snow-peaked mountains and the Tarai Gray Langurs, who were as curious about us as we were about them. These creatures need a special mention for they are a threatened species. They are quite rare and on a decline for varied reasons. Spotting them here in their natural home was quite a privilege.
The air turned cooler and cooler as we drove the winding roads of the mountains. Snuggled in our down jacket, yet reluctant to close our windows, we enjoyed the changing scene. The appearance of the Yaks marked our proximity to Phobjikha valley. We turned to the other side of the same Black mountains to enter its sunken valley. The first glimpse of it made me feel as if I were in Switzerland. The same cool misty wind with endless green stretches only dotted with cows. Sigh!
Friendly faces and cute kids waved out to us as we entered the Gangtey village and begin our first of the many things to do in Phobjikha valley – explore the Gangtey Monastery.
First Stop: Gangteng Monastery in Phobjikha Valley
Since our trip was on the spur of a moment, we could not plan for the famed Gangtey Nature Trail. Suchit tried reaching out to other guides and groups to see if he could find someone who we could join. Sadly, that was not to be. Nonetheless, there was no reason why we could not visit the place that gave the Valley another name – Gangteng Monastery.
History of Gangtey Monastery
Built in the 1610s, this monastery is quite an important one in Bhutan. It represents a prominent school of Buddhism called the Nyingmapa School. It is also, the main monastery of Pema Lingpa traditions. Now does that all sound Greek and Latin to you? 😉 Let me make it a little simpler.
Pema Lingpa is the 2nd most important Guru after the famous Guru Padmasambhava. The main Guru Padmasambhava had predicted his birth in Bhutan. It is said that Pema Lingpa had many divine qualities. One famous incident was that he actually dived in a lake with a Butter Lamp and emerged with a treasure and the lamp still burning. Responsible for the spread of Buddhism, he was considered as the King Terton of Bhutan.
It is his grandson – Pema Trinley, who arrived in Gangtey and built this monastery. He was the first head priest of the Gangteng Gompa and his descendent expanded this same monastery in a typical Dzong Style (Fortress in Bhutan as explained here). The current royal family – Wangchuck Dynasty is said to be descendants of Pema Lingpa.
Architecture of Gangtey Gonpa
Made of wood and stone, the Gangtey Monastery is a sight to behold. The original building was built by the villages in Phobjikha Valley but needed some restoration over the years. This was done in the 2000s. The monastery is painted using mineral colors locally called Dotshoen, something that is still maintained.
The main temple is quite a building with its traditional Bhutanese windows of dark wood and colorful paints. The windows and the doors are quite vibrant and make the whole atmosphere so cheerful. The corners of every ledge and roof have interesting dragons popping out on them.
Around the main temple are the living quarters of the monks and even a prayer room. Melodious chanting welcomed us as we walked around the main temple till we finally entered it. No pictures were allowed in, which was just as well for it helped me take in the gorgeous statues of Buddha and the lovely wall paintings done by the monks themselves. Quite like the Punakha Dzong, there were two thrones – one for the Head Priest and the other for the King. Though smaller than the Punakha temple, this one was no less beautiful.
Walking out of the monastery, I gazed down at the quiet Phobjikha Valley. The Gangteng Monastery was the only thing that contributed to the sound of the otherwise silent valley of Phobjikha. And that too, in the most melodious manner. What struck me strongly was the sound of the fluttering prayer flags and the swirl of the prayer wheels with the mild sound of a singing bowl that signaled the start of the meditation session. Even the locals visiting it did not interrupt the silence.
The sacredness of this monastery in this valley was evident, not just by the devotion displayed by the locals or by its strategic location on the Black mountains. It was the behavior of the migratory birds that reaffirmed the holy nature of the monastery. What about that behavior – you will know soon enough!
Lunch at Dewachan Hotel
Since the trek was not to be, we set off from Gangtey Monastery to Dewachen Hotel for our lunch. Winding to the bottom of those hills and finally onto the valley. The scenery looked even more unreal. My daughter too, equated this to nothing less than Switzerland. The interesting thing was that the flatbed of the valley was left undisturbed while the periphery was where the farms and houses were built.
Suchit, our cabbie, had preordered lunch for us as he knew we did not want to waste any time. Also, being a remote area, things are not pre-prepared. An authentic Bhutanese meal awaited us at one of the few hotels of Phobjikha valley – yummy Ema Datshi with Red Rice and Dal. Add to that their salad – Hogi. Wait – I forgot the starter – the warm Butter Tea – Suja.
It was only when the food appeared that we realized that we were famished. So caught we were with the beauty of Phobjikha that our rumbling tummies were quite ignored. We wolfed down the food while enjoying the view from the hotel.
Walking through Phobjikha Valley
With the slight drizzle that had started, the already cold Phobjikha valley somehow became even more pleasant. Mind you – I am not so comfortable with cold but somehow, this cold was just pleasant. Suchit drove us into the valley to experience what it would be on flat land. To quote his words – “You have not really visited Phobjikha Valley unless you have walked it”. I frankly would add to that – “Unless you have laid down on the grassy valley, you definitely have left your experience incomplete“. And yes, I would term my experience incomplete.
Black Necked Crane Information Center, Phobjikha Valley
Remember the other thing that I mentioned the valley was famous for – the Black Necked Cranes? Well, time to tell you about that. These wondrous creatures come all the way from Tibet every Winter to spend the next few months at Phobjikha. They are a rare set of birds and are in the endangered category. The Buddhists, especially the Bhutanese, consider them as sacred and a sign of prosperity and longevity. In fact, they celebrate their arrival with the Crane festival in November.
The Black-necked cranes are said to carry messages from heaven and if they fly over a farm, the locals believe that they will get a good harvest. Some even believe that they carry the souls of the deceased lamas and hence, they return to Phobjikha for Gangtey Monastery.
Here is where I will reveal the astonishing tale of why the Gangteng Monastery is considered sacred. These birds, when they fly in, circle the monastery thrice before they descend into the Phobjikha Valley. When they return, they repeat the same and leave. Call it a freak of nature or an actual celestial phenomenon. There is definitely something about that monastery that is sacred.
When we visited Phobjikha in April, the birds had all flown back. Except for Karma. This bird could not fly back as it was injured some years ago. It now resides at the Black Necked Crane information center in Phobjikha in a protected environment. The protection is from the wild animals that could attack it. And since, he was around, we paid him a visit.
The Black Necked Crane Information Center is a small set up for the protection of these birds. You can see a small documentary on these birds while you are here, which pretty much tells you what I shared in this section. You can even buy some local arts but the main reason to visit is Karma. It is quite amusing to see him for his dwellings has all that he needs, including a mirror that he can see himself in. 😉 . It felt sad to see him in a wide enclosure but I believe, he was injured in the first place by a dog or a wild animal.
Returning back to Punakha
It was past 4 pm and the skies did start opening up to some rain and hail. Since we had to get back to Punakha, we bundled up and left Phobjikha valley wistfully. I dragged my feet till I could and stared out as long as possible for I really did not have enough of this lovely destination. Never did I realize how the silence of a land can be charming. I kept thinking that if I had that one full day, and even if I had finished seeing all that I did, I still would want to stay here for another day. Maybe just roll on that grass, or walk amidst the cows or even just sit by the river. I know that with the company of that silence, I would not get bored.
Other things to do in Phobjikha Valley
The two main places to visit in Phobjikha are the Gangtey Monastery and the Black Necked Crane Center. However, if you do have time, here are a few other things to do in Phobjikha valley that you can add to your list –
- Visit the Chendebji Chorten. Legend has it that it covers an evil demon.
- Head to the Khumbu Lhakhang – one of the oldest temples in the silent valley
- Embark on a three-day hike – the Phubja Valley trek that takes you through bamboo and fir forests
- If you are short of time, try the Gangtey Nature Trail that starts from the Gangtey monastery. This trail also allows you to get a peek at the Khewa Lhakhang temple.
- Try some archery with the locals. It is a favored sport in Bhutan and trust me, not at all easy!
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How to get to Phobjikha Valley?
– There is only one airport in Bhutan – in Paro. There are very limited flights into Bhutan from the rest of the world.
– Once you are in Paro, you need to hire a car and head to Punakha or Phobjikha directly. The only way into Phobjikha is by road.
What is the best time to visit Phobjikha Valley?
Phobjikha valley is quite cold through the year. Spring and Summer time (March to June) is quite bearable even though the temperature might go down in minus.
However, if you are looking to spot the Black-necked cranes, then winters are the only option. The birds normally arrive in November and stay on till early March. Another reason to go in November is the Crane festival (called Teschu) that is held at the Gangtey Monastery to welcome the black-necked cranes. The festival, held in the 8th lunar month, showcases the colorful culture of Bhutan with its unique costume and masked dances. It is normally celebrated over 10 days.
Where to stay in Phobjikha Valley?
There is very limited accommodation in Phobjikha. You need to book your Phobjikha hotel well in advance and most likely through a local travel agent. The internet will offer you only a few choices. Dewachen hotel – where we had our lunch, seemed like a good option for your stay.
There are plenty of homestays and open-air camps offered in the valley. Again, all these can be accessed via the local agents.
Additional Travel Tips
- The temperature in Phobjikha valley is always low. You will need warm clothes and closed shoes while here. Remember to dress in layers.
- Please check this complete Bhutan Travel Guide for all the permits and other formalities needed to visit Bhutan
Booking Resources
- You will find Booking.com useful for booking hotels in Bhutan. Do consider clicking through the links and booking your stay.
- There are quite a few tours of Bhutan available on Klook.com. In fact, this link has one that includes a tour of Gangtey Valley. Check it out.
- Amazon is perfect for shopping for your travel requirements like hiking boots, all weather coats etc that you might need for Bhutan. Do consider clicking this link to buy them,
Disclaimer: This article includes affiliate links. This means that at no cost to you, I will receive a small commission if you purchase through my link. Thank you for supporting me with this.
Popularly referred to as a Restless Ball of Energy. My Mom refuses to entertain my complaints about my equally restless daughter & assures my husband that I was born with a travel bug.
I am a Post-Graduate in Marketing by qualification and a travel blogger by passion. Besides travel, I enjoy photography and if you don’t find me at my desk, I would be out playing badminton or swimming or just running. I believe in planning for every long weekend through the year. And when I cannot travel physically, I travel virtually through this travel blog. My travel stories have also, got published on various websites and magazines including BBC Travel, Lonely Planet India and Jetwings. I have recently published my first book – When Places Come Alive – a collection of stories that are based on legends, landscapes, art and culture of a place which is available in both ebook and paperback format.
Really thats well written. And i love bhuttan
Thank you, Sumit
Amazing valley. Great to read.
Beautiful photos.
Thank you Rupam. Kind as always.
We are planning for Bhutan this Thrusday, is it possible to visit Phobjhika from Punakha in a day and return Punakha. Awesome photos you got. very well written article. Waiting for your reply 🙂
Indeed Ishani. You can do a daytrip here – we did one. However, I do feel you will enjoy the night there. Have a good trip
Such a visual treat Ami and so much information too. Lovely blog post.
Glad you liked it Kalpana. Cheers
A beautiful post that is so refreshing to read in this hot and humid summer’s day! I would love to escape to the cool environs of Phobjika valley. Bhutan is on my never-ending bucket list, well, someday, I’ll viit this lovely place. Your captures of the wildlife and birds as well as the beautiful scenery and architecture of the monastery are mind-blowing!
Thank you Kala. I am glad you enjoyed the post and indeed on a hot day, this does take away some of that heat :-). Hope you can cross this off your list soon. Cheers
nice article you shared, few days later we all going there for trip and your article helped us a lot to know about bhutan, specially we love valley.
It is a good season now and am sure you will have a good trip. Cheers
Beautiful pics and an equally beautiful travelogue. Bhutan is definitely a traveller’s delight.
Thank you. That is a lovely compliment. Cheers
Amazing valley . Pictures are saying lot of words !! But I have a question here , Bhutan allows an independent solo traveler?
Thank you, Yogi. Bhutan does allow independent solo travelers. You have to only submit a letter of undertaking when you apply for the permit.
awesome beautiful location
It sure is. 😀
Travelling is an opportunity to discover yourself as you discover the world. This is the place where you get your own time to know yourself. Silence and the nature and the endless green valley are just incredible.
Very true. The green valleys here are just stunning and silence perfect to know yourself.
What a find, this Phobjikha Valley. These mountain villages have so many interesting legends associated with almost every apparently normal happenings. Thanks for a detailed guide and tips too. This goes into my list now.
Thanks Vasu. I am pretty sure that you will love exploring this valley. Well worth your list.
Gorgeous landscapes! Glad to know about this lovely valley in detail. How far is Phobjikha from Punakha or Paro?
Thanks Niranjan. A 3 hour distance from Punakha.
I know exactly what you are talking about as far as the silence of the land Ami! Bhutan seems to have this. Here in NZ we experience it too.You literally get away from all human beings. Then it is you and nature. The thinking mind and its chattering dies down. You are left with silence, or perfection, allowing nature to do as it has always done, harmoniously. Thanks for sharing!
Ryan
You got that right, Ryan. I could not have put it any better. I can see that you have well experienced that in NZ. Hope to do that some day and I hope you get to Bhutan for this one.
Bhutan is sooo beautiful AMi..
Thank you. It sure is.
What colourful people in the Pobjikha valley – it looks such a wonderful place to visit. And, I don’t think I’d even seen a picture of a yak before. A great guide with some fascinating stories along the way.
Thank you Fiona. This place is just unbelievable and I hope you can get to it
I love the ‘silence’ that isn’t silence exactly but it is peace, absence of the sounds of cars or people or industry that you get when out in nature in more remote areas. Soothing. This looks like a wonderful trip- definitely making me miss green & mountains
It sure is a different type of silence. Soothing! You should visit this for sure. Thanks for the lovely comment, Brooke.
Such a lovely place to visit. I would definitely roll on the grassland there to complete my experience. Food sounds different and butter tea is something I want to sip now. Loved these pics a lot.
Thanks a ton Indrani. This place is just too good. Am sure you will enjoy it. And butter tea – its unusual. Not sweet but salty
The view from your lunch table in the hotel is pretty good. Bhutan sounds very interesting in general, as well as the landscape the architecture is amazing too. Love the elaborate windows of the Gangteng Monestary.
Every nook and corner of this valley will enthrall you. It sure is worth the visit. And I hope you can do one soon.
Phobjikha valley looks incredible, some of the scenery looks more like Alaska than how I had imagined Bhutan! Except for the beautiful monastery of course. There must be something magical there if the black cranes fly around it like that!
Indeed, those black cranes intrigue me with their behavior. So mystical. I have not yet been to Alaska but if you say it looks like this, am totally game.
Looks like a very peaceful valley. Great to unwind and take a break from the city. Lovely tips. I usually just travel without making reservations so this tip is a life saver!
If you want a break from a city, anywhere in Bhutan will give you one. However, Phobjikha is a break from those peaceful towns too. Hope you can visit it soon.
The colors and the details of the art at the monastery are stunning! The work is so intricate. I have seen butter tea on television travel shows, but I had no idea that is was usual in Bhutan. I would love to try it!
The butter tea is actually quite salty as against the normal tea. An acquired taste. But nice nonetheless. I hope you can visit this country soon.
Traveling to Bhutan could be an unique expreince and I can imagine how the change of plan and day trip can add more value to the trip. I really want to visit the country but as you said there are not many flights and accommodations available.
Accommodation is easy in the other parts of Bhutan, This is sparsely populated and also, offbeat. Hence, it is limited. Hope you can get here sooner, Mansoureh
Such a lovely find! Beautiful to the core, the place invites me to experience it asap. No doubt your daughter compares it with Switzerland. 🙂
I have never had that butter tea but it sounds interesting.
P.S. Your photos are as usual gorgeous.
Thanks Nisha. The place was just too beautiful and Butter Tea – a taste to be acquired. It is salty not sweet but lovely nonetheless.
Wow! What spectacular views! The Phobjikha valley looks like it’s a painting in your photos, they’re so perfect! It definitely reminds me of the Alps. But with monkeys!! What more could you want other than mountains and monkeys.
The monkeys are rare and not so easily visible. We did get lucky with those but the mountains – they are a pleasure. Glad you liked the place too, Kate.
Thank you. Glad you liked it
Thanks for sharing such a wonderful post.
Thank you for stopping by
I love how green the mountainside is! Time to plan a trip to Bhutan! I was reading about the cranes the other day and how local traditions help conserve them. Have you read about the Sarus cranes in Uttar Pradesh?
Thanks Mohana. I have read about the Sarus Cranes but am yet to experience them. Phobjikha too, I managed to only see the lone guy left behind on account of his injuries. Hoping to remedy all that.
Oh wow.. What a lovely spontaneous trip with such a relaxing scenic view! Your introduction alone has gotten me craving for some peaceful moments at the mountains! So cool that you were able to see wildlife at the same time.. And I must agree that lunch with that view from the hotel is quite tempting!
The area is so untouched and lovely. And Silence is like its basic nature. Rare to find such spaces today. Hope you can make it there someday.
It’s great when last minute addition to itinerary becomes the highlight! This glacially formed valley looks delightful, and you captured the views and animals so beautifully. The monastery looks utterly incredible, the colour and ornate detail is astounding.
Indeed, when the last minute plans gets you places like this one, you have no reason to regret it. Glad you like the pictures of the place and I do hope you can visit there. Thanks for stopping by
I have read about Bhutan a lot but I think this post is really well written with great photos. Bhutan’s monasteries have some really interesting architecture but the nature itself is just breathtaking!
Thank you Kirtie, your comment made my day.
Phobjikha valley looks beautiful and untouched. The serendipity of travel leads you to great experiences and that is what lead you to experience the serene beauty of the Phobjikha valley. Some places are such that they overcome you with ecstatic bliss. The serenity of these places is such that you do not want to speak a word as you do not want to spoil the sanctity of the peaceful aura around the place. We experienced something similar on our way to the Nathula Pass, when we stepped out of the car in the middle of nowhere.
I love the way you have described the silence. Every bit is true and I am sure that you will feel the same when you get to Phobjikha too.
Wow! I loved those snow-capped mountain views, which I missed due to the weather during my visit to Phobhjikha. Your post made me nostalgic, bringing me all the memories of this valley that I enjoyed the most! Although I went during the season of the arrival of the Black-necked cranes, the locals told me that I was early! I so want to go back to Gangtey!
Me too, I want to get back to Phobjikha. A day trip was just not enough. Thanks for the lovely comment, Reshma and I hope you can visit Gangtey again.
You did a wonderful job visiting Phobjikha Valley. It is so damn beautiful. The monastery and small village around it reminds of the Village Kalpa. I loved Black necked Crane story. It is something unique. I too would not feellike leaving this place. Great post and pictures Ami.
Thanks Suruchi. The place has magic that keeps you there. I hope to reach Kalpa as you do for Phobjikha. Thanks for stopping by
Thanks so much for such a detailed post. It really makes me feel like I’m there with you – enjoying the architecture, gaining dharma from the monks, and watching the beautiful langurs. What a treat that you got to see them!
Thank you Greg. Glad you are enjoying the virtual tour with me.
I keep seeing pictures of Bhutan and it always make me want to go. I want to visit and just spend a month hiking about the country and seeing what I can find. I would love to get to see those monkeys. They look really cute.
Hope you can visit here. It is truly a lovely country.
This really took me back to Bhutan. Thank you!
Good to know that this evoked nostalgia. Thanks a ton for stopping by
Wow, your photos of Phobjikha Valley are beautiful! I love seeing all the colors, wildflowers and snow together. I have also never seen a Yak in person, and find them to be exquisite animals. I might have to make this a stop on my bucket list.
Phobjikha valley is just so unbelievable. The silence of nature at its best. Am glad you have chosen to add this to your list.
I love the picture you painted about the silence – the fluttering prayer flags and call of the birds really invoked a wonderful feeling. The opportunity to spend some quality time in nature is something I’ve appreciated about 2020 so I enjoyed reading about your experiences in the Phobjikha Valley. I might have fallen in love with the Yaks though, they were super cute, and the Gangteng Monastery looks like it’s straight out of a postcard.
The place is in fact, something out of a postcard. I am so glad that I got to it – unplanned!
OMG, this place looks magical. Bhutan has always been super high on our list, and that Crane festival sounds like we might need to plan our trip in November!
I am so glad that you are tempted to get here. It is so so worth it!
That valley looks gorgeous! What an interesting story – I love how some places have mythologies about them. The monastery architecture is incredible – such detail.
The colors of the monastery just pop out in those natural greens. I loved this place
Bhutan has always been a dream destination for me. I think it’s a beautiful and peaceful country, and your pictures have convinced me even more. For now, it’s still beyond my budget, but it’s good to know that Klook offers tours in Bhutan. I might check them out.
Bhutan costs are more or less the same no matter where you book the tour from. That is because the prices are centrally monitored. Either way, it is worthwhile visiting it.
Is it me that I find the whole place holy? There is some peaceful feeling in this place and it is so amazing that you got the chance to explore it.
Your gorgeous photos adds to this cool travel blog. Bhutan is truly worth visiting.
You got that right, the place is very holy. Something inexplicable here.
Wow, this is an amazing post on a place in Bhutan I haven’t heard of before. I was completely unaware of Phobjikha Valley and I loved each and every picture of this blog. The valley is magnificent, especially the Gangtey Gompa. I loved the detailed art of it. Also, the view from the hotel where you had Ema Datshi with Red Rice looks killer. Glad you brought this to me.
Shreya, am glad I got here too. That last-minute change of plan was totally worth it
Buthan is such a beutiful country. I went a few years ago. Would have loved to know the price range of this trip, since the budget might have changed now. So much to do also! Many options I didn´t consider when I was there. May consider going to Buthan when I go back to Asia.
The prices are mentioned in the linked guide to this post. They have standardized rates in Bhutan – something you would know as you have been there. And well, it does change every now and then. With the lockdown, I am not sure of what these rates now are.
I love that this wasn’t on your original itinerary yet it was one of your favorite parts. It looks SO beautiful with the mountains and rivers, and I totally know what you mean about hearing the land. I love the sound of stillness, which is sometimes hard to find when you travel!
This place was only something that I had read of but having visited it, I know that stillness and beauty exists.