A walking tour of Albaicin and Sacromonte in Granada (with a map & itinerary of best places to see)

Winding streets that end at sunset mirador
Whitewashed houses with orchards and patios you will adore. 
Flamenco shows that set the gypsy caves on fire
Just few of the many sights on the Sacromonte-Albaicin walking tour that you will admire. 

Get tips on planning and booking the walking tour of Albaicin and Sacromonte neighbourhoods of Granada. Discover what to see in Albaicin and Sacromonte and the best routes to follow (with a map). 

If you want to really know the history of Granada, then you must visit the oldest district of the city. It isn’t the Alhambra but the locus of whitewashed houses that you can spot from any of the windows and towers of the fortress. Called Albaicin, this too is a UNESCO World Heritage site that predates the Alhambra and Nasrid palaces. The best way I discovered this neighbourhood, was by signing up for an Albaicin Sacromonte walking tour.

My walking tour of Albaicin, Granada took me along the cobblestone paths of this Moorish locality filled with picturesque abodes, scented orchards, floral patios and viewpoints like the famous Albaicin Mirador de San Nicolas. It continued to include another fascinating neighbourhood with cave dwellings called Sacromonte. While Albaicin showcased the Morisco and Muslim origins of Granada, Sacromonte touched upon its gypsy roots and the culture of Flamenco. Absolutely vibrant, informative and fun, this walk through the quarters of Albaicin and Sacromonte is one of my hightly recommended things to do in Granada.

This blog post is not just a virtual tour of these intriguing Granada districts but an article that will help you plan your own trip.  I have shared my walking tour of Albaicin and Sacromonte itinerary which includes key places to see in these neighbourhoods. With my handy Albaicin map and tips, you can plan your own self-guided walking tour of Albaicin and Sacromonte.

In case you prefer booking guided tours of Granada’s Bario Albaicin, I have shared information on where you can find the best options, what to look for in these tours, how much they cost and their pros and cons.

Disclaimer: This article includes affiliate links. This means that at no cost to you, I will receive a small commission if you purchase through my link. Thank you for supporting me with this.

Are Albaicin and Sacromonte the same?

Albacin and Sacromonte are often spoken in the same breath. However, they are two separate neighbourhoods with distinct cultures and histories. Albaicin refers to the white-washed Moorish quarters while Sacromonte is known for its caves and gypsy dwellings. The distinction will become even more evident as you go through the next section on the history of these two neighbourhoods of Granada.

History of Albaicin and Sacromonte

I would say that the Albaicin history is the history of Granada. Evidence of a Roman city has been found that puts this region back to 27 BC. However, the story of Albaicin is lost between this era and the 8th century, when the Zirids took over and established the Taifa of Granada.

Albaicin was a small Jewish settlement called Gharnata then. Zarin Ben Ziri developed the settlement into a major city of the region that came to be known as Al Andalus. The name of this area came from the words – Al Bayyazin meaning the Falconers district. The old fortress called Al Qasaba Al Qadima that was already there was expanded by the Zirid kings. The new fortifications included two more fortress walls and connected the Sabika hill. Even today, when you go on the Albaicin Granada walking tour, you can spot remains of these defensive walls and even the city gates like the Puerta Monaita and Puerta Nueva.

Albaicin neighbourhood of Granada was quite well developed with a network of water cisterns that supplied water straight from the Darro river. There were mosques, hammams and hospitals. However, when the Nasrid dynasty took over in the 1300s, they faced a lot of attacks from the Castilian kings. Fed up of the same, the Red one or Muhammed I moved his powerhouse up Sabika hill. This is how the beginning of the grand Alhambra fortress.

However, Albaicin quarter continued to be a home for many affluent families – till the Spanish inquisition of 1499. The inquisition forced many Muslims to convert to Christianity. Mosques were claimed and churches were built over it. The Moriscos (converted muslims) attempted to keep their properties but were eventually driven out. Their empty homes were annexed and converted into Orchards, which became extensions of the new Christian inhabitants.

At the same time, something interesting was happening on the mountains bordering the Granada Barrio Albaicin district. A new settlement of gypsies was being established in the caves of these mountains. The mountain settlement came to be known as Sacromonte – a word that means sacred mountains. People still live in some of these cave dwellings that you can see as a part of your walking tour of Sacromonte and Albaicin itinerary.

How to pick the right type of walking tours of Albaicin, Granada?

Free Albaicin and Sacromonte, Albaicin tour with a toy train, self-guided Albaicin walking tour, a sunset tour of Albaicin – the options confused me when I was trying to decide. Most start at the same point – Plaza Nueva and follow a similar route of around 3 kms over 2.5 to 3 hours. The difference comes in with the quality of the guide.

I have put together tips as well as pros and cons of various options that should help you choose the right tour. I will share them as you go through these broad categories of Albaicin walking tours. In case you are opting for a Segway or electric bike tours, you can use the same checklist.

Free walking tours of Albaicin and Sacromonte

There are several “free walking tours of Albaicin neighbourhood” and the offerings are similar to the paid guided tours. While there is no fixed price that you need to give the guide, at the end of the tour, they expect around €5 – 20 per person as tips.

There are several ethical and legal concerns regarding these free tours. For one, the locals leading them are not always qualified and they do not always stick to the plan. Many forums also, report that the explanations given are not always factual and the walk includes many restaurants and shops where the guide might earn his commission (well, naturally coz he has to earn his keep).

Rushed tours with large crowds are another issue that I have heard of (and seen on my own walks). I in fact, saw one group where owing to the crowd, the guide could not be heard by many people.

If you are on a budget, then you can consider booking one of these free guided walking tours of Sacromonte y Albaicin. Here are some of my tips to select the right free tour–

• Remember to pre-book your walking tour slot and show up at the meeting point well in advance.
• Go with a reputed free walking tour company
• Read the reviews before picking your slot.
• Pick the slot that has your language mentioned. Many of these free walking tours are only in a single language – not necessarily English.
• Check the walking tour itinerary and stops with the one that I have coming up in the next section.

Guided Albaicín walking tours

There are several companies that offer well-qualified guides for private as well as group walking trips of Albaicin. The starting price for these is €25 per person  – which may include several freebies like a drop and pick up, a discounted entrance ticket to other Granada attractions, refreshments or tapas etc.

Many guided walking tours come with a headset that makes it easy for you to listen to the guide. Also, unlike the free walking tours, most of these do not include stops at shops and restaurants, which means that you get to cover most of the neighbourhood. There are several time slots that you can book for.  I recommend a sunset tour of Albaicin and Sacromonte. The only downside is that they seem a little more pricier than the “free option”.

That said, I still would like to cast my vote for this option. Assured quality for a slightly higher price – after all, it is not every day that you are going to visit Granada.

These are some factors that you could consider when picking a guided walking tour.

• Always check the review scores as well as the qualitative reviews. GetYourGuide and Viator only include verified reviews (authentic ones) of travelers who have taken that tour.
• Check the freebies and pick the ones that work for you the most. For me, it was the discounted price of a highly reviewed tour.
• A few of them offer a free-drop or pick up from your hotel. Again, I was already in the center of the town, so I did not opt for that.
• Note the languages offered as well as the time slots. Most often, these time slots are available in specific languages only.
• Compare the Albaicin walking tour itineraries to ensure that you are covering most of the neighbourhood. You can use the Sacromonte- Albaicin itinerary that I have shared in the next section.

Among the guided tours of the Albaicin neighbourhood that can be booked online on GetYourGuide and Viator, I have picked these three that I considered for my own walk.

• Albaicin and Sacromonte guided sunset walking tour
• Albaicín and Sacromonte Walking Tour
• Albaicín, Sacromonte & Museum of Caves Walking Tour

Self-guided walking tour of Albaicín and Sacromonte

The biggest advantage of a self-guided DIY option is that you have the flexibility of entering various attractions and stopping whenever you want. None of the guided tours (free or paid) include allow you this – you have to follow the route with your guide and visit the attraction (museum or monument) again after the tour is over.

If and only if – I had the time, I would have loved to do a self-guided Albaicin and Sacromonte walking tour. I was quite tempted to follow the routes that you can get when you purchase audio guides like this one. However, even with clear instructions, finding these attractions on those narrow winding roads does take time.

You, my dear readers, are however, in luck. In the next section, with my walking tour of Albaicin and Sacromonte itinerary and the route map, you can attempt your own walk and explore these neighbourhoods. If not, use the itinerary as a guide to check if these points of interest in Albaicin and Sacromonte are covered in your guided tour.

My walking tour of Albaicin and Sacromonte itinerary (with Albaicin map, route & key attractions)

In this section, I will address what to see in Albaicin. I will take you on a virtual tour in the same – capturing the attractions in the same order as I saw them. In case you want to try doing a self-guided walking tour of Albaicin, all you have to do is follow the route I have charted on this Albaicin Granada map.

There are a few places on this Albaicin itinerary that I could only see from outside (disadvantage of a guided group tour). However, I did get information on them and you can always plan your walk to include them. I have also, included them as an alternate route that you can consider when planning your walking tour of Albaicin and Sacromonte itinerary.

So, let’s begin wherever tour starts – Plaza Nueva in Granada.

Plaza Nueva

There is no missing on this famous square of Granada. Irrespective of where you stay, you have to at least pass by this square. At the foothills of the Alhambra forest, Plaza Nueva has a name that is au contraire to its importance. Though it means a new square, Plaza Nueva is a historic one. During the Nasrid rule, it used to have a bridge that went by the name – Woodcutter’s bridge that connected what was called the Tournament Square to the other side of the River Darro. As you can guess, it was an arena where tournaments of sorts were held.

The bridge was taken down in the 1500s and what emerged was a public square with classical buildings -some of which you can see today. One of these is the Royal Chancellery building (Supreme court of Andalucia) that you can see today. The building dates to 1530s, when it was also, used as a prison.

Another heritage landmark that you can see is the Pilar del Toro. This is 16th-century water fountain was not an original part of this square but was brought here from Elvira in 1940s. You can easily identify this with its Renaissance bull heads.

Your meeting point for the walking tour of Albaicin, Granada is going to be near the Fuente de la Plaza Nueva. This is where you will find tons of cafes and souvenir shops to pick your goodies from Granada. I loved the Moorish lamps in some of the shops here and ended up buying a few for my home. I of course, did that on my return from the Albaicin walking tour. I definitely did not want to lug the extra weight.

Church of Santa Ana (Iglesia de San Gil y Santa Ana)

As you walk towards Albaicín quarter, at the end of the Plaza Nueva square, you will see this gorgeous church with a very Mudejar bell tower. This is the Church of Santa Ana – built in the 1500s. It replaced a mosque called the Almanzora mosque on this site. Designed by the then-famous architect –Diego de Siloe, this church near Albaicin sports a fusion of Renaissance and Mudejar art. On the tower, you can see the blue and white mosaic work that is very Moorish while the façade with the busts and sculptures of Mother Mary and other figures is Renaissance.

The Santa Ana church is free to visit but opens only during mass. I am told the interiors are quite impressive, with five chapels connected to a nave and Mudejar coffered ceilings along with elegant arched gateways.

Carrera del Darro

Past the church, you enter one of the most charming streets of Granada. The Carrera del Darro exudes Moorish charm with its heritage buildings that include Arab homes (carmens) and hammams – all along the narrow cobblestone path that runs by the River Darro. You will find a few of the old bridges connecting the street to the Sabika hill with the famous Alhambra.

Not only did I find the setting charming but Carrera del Darro is full of stories – all residing in the structures that you see when you stroll down the street. Let me start with the one connected to the name Darro. Darro comes from the original name – Dauro which means gold. Apparently, the river did have some gold in it and hence the name. Of course, it isn’t the case any more or else like my Albaicin walking tour guide –  Juanita said – “We would not be walking here but would be looking for gold in the river”.

Puenta del Cadi

River Darro was like the lifeline for Albaicin neighbourhood and the water from the river was very artfully directed through a network of cisterns to the wealthy homes in the neighbourhood. One interesting structure in this water supply network is an old bridge called Puente del Cadi (Puerta de los Tableros). Don’t look for an actual bridge for that no longer exists. There is just a small arch on the bank opposite to the side you are walking on. This belonged to this unique bridge cum dam. The bridge was like a defensive structure but at the same time, functioned like a dam to collect the river water.

On the same street, there is one of the few surviving hammams dating back to the 11^th century. In fact, it is right opposite to the ruins of Puerta de los Tableros. Called El Banuelo, it showcases a typical layout with a pool that is connected to a large cold bath area and a smaller hot bath. You can still visit it and see the interiors for yourself.

Convento de Santa Catalina de Zafra

This is a nunnery that was partially damaged during a powder magazine blast that happened in 1500s.  You can see it from outside

Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul

Built over a mosque called the Baths mosque, this pretty church is one of the oldest ones in Granada. It was first built in 1500s but suffered damage with the powder magazine explosion. It was demolished and rebuilt by the same architect as the Santa Ana church. This too, has a Moorish coffered ceiling inside and a magnificent sculptured doorway.

Castril Palace (Casa de Castril)

Just a few meters from El Banuelo is the Castril palace which currently houses the Archaeological museum of Granada. It was originally built as a home for a rich nobleman – Hernando de Zafra. Now this guy pledged his allegiance to the Crown when the Spanish kings took over from the Nasrid dynasty. Pleased with his contributions (some quite harmful), he was given the title “Lord of Castril” and thus, the name of his home.

The Castril Palace in Albaicin quarters was built in 1539. You can still see most of its original construction when you visit the museum – which incidentally is free. Don’t miss a peek into the balcony where another Albaicin tale resides. Somewhere there is an inscription that reads “Esperando del la Cielo” which means “awaiting heaven”. The inscription is tagged to a the story of notorious Zafra who furiously shielded his daughter from the eyes of the local suitors.

Despite his efforts, one of the local guys fell in love with her and sent a message through a servant. Unlucky for the servant, for he was caught in the act of delivering and was mistaken to be the owner of the letter. Zafra lost it and ordered him to be hung from his daughter’s balcony. The servant pleaded innocence to which the mighty Lord said that he can wait for justice in heaven. The daughter was locked away and in desperation and depression, took her own life in that room. Sigh! 

Paseo de los Tristes (Passage of sad people)

Right at the end of the Carrera del Darro, you have this part which is now almost like a fun square. Called Paseo de los Tristes, this was the street that was used by mourners to carry the dead to the cemetery. Hence, it was given the name.

Now of course, you might find a flea market or two or flamenco dancers performing live. It is no longer the street of the sad.  As you can see in the Albaicin map, this is at the end of Carrera del Darro. I recommend that you visit this on your way back from Sacromonte – towards the end of the tour. For now, take a detour to the House of Zafra.

House of Zafra – a must-see attraction of Albaicin

Take a little detour and walk towards the House of Zafra. This is another one of those free things to do in Albaicin. You can enter this 16^th century mansion and taken in the layout of a typical Moorish house – called Carmen.

If you recall the history of Albaicin, I mentioned that when the Mudejars were driven out, their homes became an extension for the Spanish owners who took over. They used these extensions for gardens or vineyards.

In the House of Zafra, you will see this as well as the other signature features like the water fountains, high walls for privacy and the ornate Moorish arches.

El Maristan de Granada

Right after the El Banuelo, you will come across the El Maristan. Dating back to the 14th century, with around 60 rooms, this was one of the first ever psychiatric hospitals in Granada. The mentally ill were admitted here and treated using natural spices like hemp, nutmeg etc.

The word Maristan is believed to have originated from the word – Bimar which means ill. The hospital later became a mint during the Spanish rule and for some time, a monastery. It was later abandoned. It is currently in the stages of restoration.

It was architecturally quite pleasing with a set of sculpted lions and inscribed tablets. However, to prevent further damage to them, these structures have been moved to the Alhambra. You can see the lions in the El Partal palace while the other treasures are in the museum. If you have taken the Dobla de Oro tickets of the Alhambra, then you are even treated to a brief tour of this old hospital.

I had to see it from outside as there was heavy restoration in progress. Maybe you will get lucky on your Albaicín district walk. 

San Juan de los Reyes church

You will have to now start walking a little uphill. Follow the map and you will reach another mosque converted to a church. One look at the bell tower and you can identify its minaret origin – especially owing to the Sebka art that you might have seen in the Nasrid palaces of Alhambra. The structure goes back to the 13^th century.

Calle del Agua

The stretch from the church to the next point is through the Calle des Agua – a charming lane filled with the typical white washed carmens for which Albaicin neighbourhood is famous. The street is named such as it is one of the oldest and the most important part of the water channel networks in Albaicin. Most of the water in the channels of this street came from the fountain of Las Lagrimas. Once upon a time, it had a hammam too.

If you are not pressed for time, you might enjoy a café or two here.

Aljibe de Trillos

One of the 20-odd surviving underground cisterns of the Albaicin neighbourhood of Granada, this looks like a small water fountain that has been abandoned. However, in reality, it is 50 cubic meters of underground space that collected water. You will see it as you head to the next point on this walking tour of Albaicin and Sacromonte.

Placenta del Camino – one of the miradors (view points) of Albaicin

More than a viewpoint, this was a picturesque square with beautiful carmens around it. You can spend a few moments around the wide stairs that all lead to the spot where you get an unobstructed view of the mountains and the Alhambra,

Juanita, my Granada walk guide also, pointed out a small staircase en route to this Mirador. If you take that, then you come across an offbeat mirador called Mirador Secreto. If there is too much crowd at the Placenta del Camino – this can be an option. I have marked it on the map.

Mirador de San Nicolas – one of the most popular places to see in Albayzin

You will find yourself walking through the picturesque Cuesta de las Tomas with its cobblestone levels and corners lined with the landmark Albaicin homes. You will pass by the Far-View Point and end at one of the most popular attractions of Albaicin – Mirador de San Nicolas. This is presumably the best place to witness a sunset in Granada. It is here that I finally understood why the Alhambra was called the Red Castle.

The viewpoint is actually a large square with benches. It is usually teeming with hawkers selling souvenirs and flamenco artists putting up a show. Expect a crowd, especially if you are here at sunset.

There are two important monuments that you need to see when you are at San Nicolas square.

• San Nicholas church, which again was built over a mosque but was destroyed many times by fire. The only surviving part of both the mosque and the church is the minaret converted to a bell tower.
• Mezquita del Albaicin  or the Albaicin mosque. The great mosque of Granada is a few meters from the square. You can visit inside. I am told the wooden and marble interiors are quite lavish.

From here, you have two options. You can continue further on the alternate Granada Albaicin walking tour towards the Palacio Dar Al Horra or take the other route that takes you to the gypsy caves neighbourhood – Sacromonte. I had already done the alternative route on my own during my stay in Granada.

While I continue to Sacromonte, check the last section of this blog post for the alternative Albaicin itinerary. I have plotted that on the map as well as shared a brief synopsis of the key attractions on this route.

Cueva de Chorrohumo Siglo XV – the first stop in Sacromonte neighbourhood

Past the Albaicin mosque, through more of those winding lanes with really cute houses, we finally entered Sacromonte. Located on the adjacent hill, it is almost seamless with the white colored Albacin quarters. The cave homes with their decorative doors almost merge with the hilly façade that have been painted blue and white. The only difference is that they look a little run down compared to the Albaicin homes.

The first stop is at a Cave museum which features the hero of our next tale – Chorrojumo. He was a blacksmith who turned into one of the most photographed gypsies – earning him the title of being the “King of Gypsies”. While he was on his regular job of moulding iron, he  was discovered by the artist Mariano Fortuny, who painted a portrait of him. This made him quite popular and introduced an innate opportunity for him, Chorrojumo realized he could be paid for showing people around and getting photographed with them. He soon abandoned his occupation and his family and him began living on the income that this new opportunity brought in.

The museum showcases his journey as well as has some interesting artifacts that will help you understand these cave dwellings and their inhabitants better.

Mirador de la Vereda de Enmedio (Mario Maya)

From here, you get to another viewpoint where you can see the Alhambra lit up. It gives you a clearer view of the summer palace and gardens (Generalife) of the Alhambra.

Here too, there is another museum but it was closed by the time we got to it. The view point is also, called Mario Maya after the Flamenco dancer who popularized this place.

It had grown quite dark and hence, I did not walk further uphill. However, if you have the time, do get to the Sacromonte museum and the Sacromonte Abbey. They do shed a lot of light on the culture and history of this neighbourhood.

Cueva la Rocio

You can choose to end your tour here with a drink while watching the famous Zambra artists (believed to be one of the original Flamenco dancers) inside a cave. However, make sure you reserve early.

Alternatively, you can visit Cueva de Santa Marina or the Cueva de San Agustín. Again, pre-booking is essential. You can book one through here.

From here, you can make your way through the Paseo de los Tristes to Carrera del Darro and Plaza Nueva. That ends this walking tour of Albaicin and Sacromonte.

Alternative route for a walking tour of Albaicin neighbourhood

On the map, you can see an alternate route from the Albaicin mirador of San Nicolas, taking you in the opposite direction to Sacromonte. This is the other route that you can do covering these attractions –

• Cuesta de Maria la Miel – The narrow carmen-filled lane is known for the tale of Salam Alhamar who had kept a girl he liked- Maria captive. One fine day, he found her holding a bouquet of jasmines that she had got from another admirer. In a squabble, the bouquet fell into the well and that made the water in it sweet. Or well, so they say!
• Aljibes del Rey – Now a part of the Granada waterworks. This was the largest underground cistern of Albaicin.
• Palacio Dar Al Horra – This is a partially destroyed palace that belonged to the mother of the last Nasrid King – Boabdil. The name means “House of the honest lady”. One part of this palace is now the convent of Santa Isabel La Real and the other is a government office. If you have bought the Dobla Oro tickets of Alhambra, you can visit this. It is a gorgeous place with the typical Nasrid architecture all around a courtyard.
• Convent of Santa Isabel La Real – With its coat of arms evident, this was the part of the Dar Al Horra palace that was taken over by Queen Isabella and converted to a monastery. The place still showcases its original Sebka art of the 15^th century. The nuns here, sell pastries that you can buy through their tiny swivel window. Kind of like the monastery that I saw on my Madrid cycling tour.

My personal recommendation is that you stick to the Sacromonte route and do this part on another day. You can combine it with some other sights of Granada.

Other places to see in Albaicin

While these are not a part of the walking tour route, I did manage to get to them through the hop-on-hop-off train.. If you do have time, you might want to visit these. I have marked them separately on the Albaicin map.

Arco Jesus de la Amargura

This is an arch that was once an entrance to the Albaicin neighbourhood

Church of San Salvadore

Iglesia de El Salvador or the Church of San Salvadore is located in Plaza del Salvador. Originally there was a mosque but after the Spanish conquest in the 16^th century, this church was built. It still has the Mudejar elements alongside the Renaissance design. The church is home to several gorgeous art pieces that include paintings as well as sculptures.    

San Cristobal viewpoint

This is a view point with one of the many mosques converted to a church. However, from here you can see the old wall of Albaicin district.

What is the best time to visit the Albaicin neighbourhood?

I would recommend that you take the Albaicin and Sacromonte walking tour that starts in the 2^nd half of the day. That way, you get to experience the best of the views at the various Albaicin miradors – sunset, night view etc.

It is quite pleasant to do this during the spring and summer season – i.e from April to September. (and even October). Winters might get a little chilly and the sun sets quite early. Most walking tours alter their hours during this season.

Common FAQs about Albaicin and Sacromonte

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Ami

Popularly referred to as a Restless Ball of Energy. My Mom refuses to entertain my complaints about my equally restless daughter & assures my husband that I was born with a travel bug.

I am a Post-Graduate in Marketing by qualification and a travel blogger by passion. Besides travel, I enjoy photography and if you don’t find me at my desk, I would be out playing badminton or swimming or just running. I believe in planning for every long weekend through the year. And when I cannot travel physically, I travel virtually through this travel blog. My travel stories have also, got published on various websites and magazines including BBC Travel, Lonely Planet India and Jetwings. I have recently published my first book – When Places Come Alive – a collection of stories that are based on legends, landscapes, art and culture of a place which is available in both ebook and paperback format.

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