Walk through the Chitradurga Fort

by | posted in: Asia, Heritage, India, Karnataka | 32
As I planned the route from Bangalore to Hampi, I noted that one of the best roads to Hampi was through the town of Chitradurga. A small part of my memory ignited and I remembered that the town had a famous fort – one that I had actually not seen. And well, as I detoured and researched on the fort, I realized that there was no way that we detour around the town without having seen it. And yes, that is how Chitradurga Fort happened. The fort is quite huge and not so well popularized and that is what makes it even more fascinating. So, here goes my trip to Chitradurga fort
Chitradurga Fort                                                                                     Image Credits: Deep Goswami
Chitradurga Fort                                                                                                                             Image Credits: Deep Goswami
As you approach the town from the highway, one of the striking things that you will notice are the lovely windmills around the outskirts of the town – sights that are even more enjoyable as you climb to the Chitradurga fort.
Windmills at Chitradurga
Windmills at Chitradurga

Entrance of Chitradurga Fort

The most striking feature of this fort is the seven walls of the fort, all in circles – starting from the ground level right up to the hill. The first two levels are amidst the current Chitradurga town – the first one you will definitely miss, the second and third one a little more obvious as you head to the fort. The second wall is a narrow one that allows your car to pass through towards the now-official entrance of the fort. Watch out for the snake inscription at the entrance of the fort, right above the moat that surrounds it.
Chitradurga entrance
Image Credits: Nikhil
As you start trekking upwards from the official entrance, you will marvel at the simple ingenious of the way in which these walls are constructed. None of the entrances are in straight line and one needs to little snake around the various walls to reach the next gate- which means that the enemy cannot penetrate the fort directly. Also, the steep stairs makes it even more impregnable.
Concentric entrances of the Chitradurga Fort
Concentric entrances of the Chitradurga Fort
The walls of the fort are fortified by strong stones and one can spot the little spy holes and gun slits on the walls, used to protect and watch over the fort. Along the way, you can spot specific watch towers as well. There are some oil wells along the way that used to store the oil used for lighting the fort. Watch out for a live acrobat or the monkey man – who normally sits between the 6th and 7th entrance. This gentleman from Tamil Nadu, generally performs to a crowd by climbing the walls of the fort without any support. Known as Kothi Raj, you can just take a small break to watch him there and well, just leave a little tip for him.
Watch Tower at Chitradurga Fort
Watch Tower at Chitradurga Fort

The ruins within the Chitradurga Fort

As you proceed along the entrances, don’t miss the old Gun-powder factory – intact with its grind wheels at one of these turns. Right next to it, is a cave that you can enter. This was probably, where the watchmen in the olden days used to stay. You can crouch into it, remember to close your nose though. And see if you can spot any of the bats 🙂
Gun Powder Factory at Chitradurga Fort                                                         Image Credits: Deep Goswami
Gun Powder Factory at Chitradurga Fort                                                                                         Image Credits: Deep Goswami
As you reach the seventh level, you come to the main square – a place that seems to have been a hub of a lot of activities. There is a main temple here called the Ekanatheshwari temple and close to it, an unmistakable pillar that was used for hanging swings. You will also, see a huge singular pillar which is the Deepastambha or the lamp post. Another important and beautiful site in this square is the step well, that used to be filled with colored water during the festivals like Holi.
45 feet high Lamp post with the Swing post in the background.                              Image Credits: Nagarjuna
45 feet high Lamp post with the Swing post in the background.                                                        Image Credits: Nagarjuna
Walking along further, you will now spot some ruined structures. These were the mint and the treasure house. This seems to be a military center. You can walk into the same just to look around. There is a small temple here as well, which is said to have served as a hiding place for treasures. It is said that the pit below the idol was used as a hidey hole 🙂
Ruined Mint and Treasury buildings at Chitradurga
Ruined Mint and Treasury buildings at Chitradurga

The legend of Onaka Obavva Kindi at Chitradurga Fort

Now, don’t stop here as the most interesting part of this fort is coming up. There is a famous legend associated with this fort, involving the wife of one of the sentries. If I have piqued your curiosity, let’s travel along to the place famously referred to as Onaka Obavva Kindi. Along the path, you will see twin tanks as in the picture below. These tanks are over 50 feet deep and have fresh-water in it. They are named after the wives of the erstwhile ruler Madakari Nayaka. The tanks are called Akka Tangiyara Honda, after the wives committed suicide by jumping into the tanks after the fort fell to Hyder Ali. 
Akka Tangiyara Honda                                                                                          Image Credits: Pavithrah
Akka Tangiyara Honda                                                                                                                            Image Credits: Pavithrah
 I will let you in on the famed legend of Onaka Obavva Kindi – it is said that this lady- Obavva was keeping a watch while her husband was resting and having a meal in their cave home. She spotted Hyder Ali’s soldiers trying to worm their way into the fort through a hole and she single-handedly started killing them one-by-one and hiding their bodies. When her husband returned, he saw her standing with a blood stained pestle and raised an alarm in the fort. Kindi in Kannada means a secret passage and this term Onaka Obavva Kindi refers to the same passage that Obavva protected from the soldiers. 
Onake Obavva Kindi                                                                       Image Credits Krishnaraj Barvathaya
Onake Obavva Kindi                                                                                                           Image Credits Krishnaraj Barvathaya
There is a small passage below the opening and you can hop down to it. You can wander into the little cave system and try to go through this narrow opening. We wanted to try the same but unfortunately, there was a long waiting with a small queue inside the cavern. The queue would not move for a long time and I wonder if it was because someone was stuck there 😉 And that would not be a surprise as the opening is quite narrow. 🙂 Nearby this passage, is a small cave which was supposedly Obavva’s home. 

The unique Hidimbishwara temple at Chitradurga Fort

Time for another legend and this time from the epic of Mahabharata. For this you need to head back to the entrance, where the Eknatheshwari temple is  located. On the opposite side of the temple, on a boulder, you will note another temple. This one is dedicated to Hidimbi the demon wife of Bhima– one of the Pandavas. 
Hidimbeshwara Temple                                                                                Image Credits: Nagarjuna
Hidimbeshwara Temple                                                                                Image Credits: Nagarjuna
As the story goes, the hillock was occupied by a fierce demon Hidimba,  along with his sister Hidimbi. The demon was a nuisance for the people around and Bhima got rid of him and married Hidimbi. His son Ghatochkach later, played a key part in the battle of Mahabharata. This is the only temple that has been dedicated to Hidimbi. The view from the temple of the rest of the city and the fort is beautiful. But beware of the monkeys! And there are hoards of them, who love snatching every possible thing that you may be carrying. My daughter almost, got her cap snatched while we were here. And while you keep a watch on these monkeys, don’t miss out the sight of the granaries from atop.
 
There are a few more temples, including the one where the Nayakas or the rulers of this region had their coronation ceremony.For these temple, you need to take a long trek in a direction completely opposite to the one that you have so far being going. If you are the adventurous lot, you will find the same very interesting. But beware, there are a lot of steps to climb.

View of the fort from the Hidimbeshwari temple, Chitradurga Fort
View of the fort from the Hidimbeshwari temple, Chitradurga Fort

Rock climbing at Chitradurga Fort

If you are looking for some extreme adventure, try climbing a steep hillock shown below. There are a few cuts grooved into the same but no hand rails and the hillock being smooth, is easy to climb up but is extremely steep. So, getting down is a challenge. You can note the same in the picture below – getting down while sitting seems to be the most popular way of returning to ground reality 😉 This hillock is quite a popular adventure trail.
Hillock for some climbing activity                                                                                         Image Credits: Deep Goswami
Hillock for some climbing activity                                                                                         Image Credits: Deep Goswami

Chitradurga fort has a lot for the adventurous and is a great off-beat destination, especially if you are on your way to Pune, Goa or Hampi from Bangalore. Take a break here and spend a few hours at the fort. Am sure, it will be a thrilling experience. A good day outing for people from Bangalore.

Getting to Chitradurga Fort:

  • Chitradurga is around 200 kms from Bangalore, on the NH4, Bangalore-Pune Highway. 
  • This is en-route to Hampi. It is as Chitradurga that one must take a diversion for Hampi.
  • There are a few trains to Chitradurga from Bangalore, however, it is better accessible by road through cars and buses. There are regular buses as well from Bangalore.

Travel Tips:

  • Chitradurga fort is quite a steep climb and there is a lot of walking to be done when you reach here. Hence, make sure you do not carry too many things, wear comfortable cotton clothes and flat shoes.
  • Carry lots of water as you are bound to get thirsty. 
  • There are a few shops and restaurants near the Eknatheshwari temple. You can buy refreshments are regular prices from here.
  • Through the year, the climate is quite pleasant. Avoid monsoons owing to the steep climbs involved and open nature of the fort.
  • There is a light and sound show on certain days here. You can note the timings for the same at the counter itself.
  • There are plenty of guides around the place and you could use their services. Be sure to check if they have a license and also, note that they may not always take you to all the points. Hence, make sure you sort the same out before you engage them.
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32 Responses

  1. kdn
    | Reply

    Great post, reminds us of our trip. Just one tip:- we found that all the spots the guide took us were clearly marked by large signs, so taking the guide was not required. However, this does help in providing some employment to the locals, so I would recommend it. However, only take the licensed ones as the post recommends

  6. Indrani
    | Reply

    Yes, she is one of the most well known and most admired woman warrior of Karnataka. Very inspiring story.

  13. Ami Bhat
    | Reply

    Indeed. To be able to take on an army by yourself is a feat. She is a part of the Kannada literature 🙂

  15. Somali K Chakrabarti
    | Reply

    Lovely views of the Chitradurgh Fort. Climbing up the hill and hopping down the small hole must be making the travel quite interesting. It is nice to know the legend of legend of Onaka Obavva Kindi

  21. Sri Kri
    | Reply

    Interesting story about Obavva.Informative post.Thanks for sharing.
    How much time it takes to climb up and down the hill?

    Cheers,
    Sriram & Krithiga

  22. Ami Bhat
    | Reply

    Thanks Sriram and Krithiga. I did not climb the hill myself but I saw some people complete the same in an hour. Climbing up is quite easy. The getting down is tricky 🙂

  23. Shiny
    | Reply

    Hello Ami,

    Nice write up and amazing pictures.I was planning for Durga trip with my Husband and a group of my friends. Just came across your blog. This has helped to plan my trip better.We are crazy trekkers as well, we could not have asked for more on a one day trip!.Wayanad is next on my list :-)…

    Thanks
    Divya

  24. Ami Bhat
    | Reply

    Thanks Divya. Glad you found it useful. Check out my account of Wayanad too, maybe a few things may help you plan your trip again. 😀

  25. Neha Verma
    | Reply

    Wow, this is great Ami… I love historical places like these . Wish I had come to know about it before I traveled to Hampi .. next time indeed 🙂

  26. Sandy N Vyjay
    | Reply

    The Chitradurga fort is a historic place and many a iconic Kannada movies have been shot there. But strangely I have seen this fort from the bus many years ago, but not been there as yet. This fort is one place in Karnataka that I have to visit. Whenever the Onake Obavva song in Kannada plays on TV, I think of this fort and make up my mind to head there, but some or the other circumstance prevents me. It is a case of so near yet so far! “)

  27. VAK
    | Reply

    Hi – Was this a day trip ? How much time to see the fort ? is there a good lunch place at Chitradurga ?

    • Ami
      | Reply

      You can do this as a day trip FROM bangalore
      .. You need at least 3 hours for the whole fort. And yes there are some decent restaurants here for lunch

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