First Published on April 21, 2017
When it comes to Mahabalipuram, the one thing that all of you might have heard of is the Shore Temple Mahabalipuram. In fact, it is possibly the first monument that comes to mind when you think of this UNESCO World heritage site. Even if you are just transiting through this town, it is highly unlikely that you would not have stopped at this significant temple. Naturally, the Golden Chariot tour had this as a part of its Mahabalipuram itinerary and I, thanks to the same, got a chance to visit it all over again.
From the first time that I visited this temple in the 1990s to now, a lot has changed about this temple. A lot of new perspectives that I discovered, new excavations have revealed stuff and the most significant of them all, hidden underwater temples have come to fore. What seemed like a straightforward temple in the 1990s, over the last three visits, has become a site full of mysteries. With this visit of mine, I tried to spot all that I had gleaned from the latest on this temple. I walked gingerly with eyes wide open, with the hope of making a new discovery myself – possibly spot a hidden coin or a sculpture. But naturally, it was a World Heritage Site that was must have been thoroughly examined and I was no expert.
I do sound mysterious – don’t I? Well, I honestly, did feel that way. Allow me to share why. I think that at the end of this post, you too, might be brimming with curiosity.
History of the Shore Temple Mahabalipuram
The Shore Temple Mahabalipuram dates back to the 8th century and is considered to be one of the oldest temples in India. The credit for building this granite temple has been given to King Narsimhavarman II of the Pallava dynasty. It is largely believed that this is just a small part of the actual temple that existed. There were more of these temples which got lost along the ever-changing shoreline of India. The actual name of the temple was is also, unknown. The current name – Shore temple, comes from the fact that this is located right on the shore of the Bay of Bengal.
Structure of the Shore Temple Mahabalipuram
I had briefly explained the structure of the Shore Temple Mahabalipuram in my first post of things to see in Mahabalipuram. Narrow passages, three shrines with 2 dedicated to Lord Shiva and one with a reclining image of Vishnu. I had seen these earlier but in this visit, I only managed to see one shrine properly as the other two were closed for restoration. The one that I saw was of Lord Shiva and his family – locally referred to as Somaskanda. Our Golden Chariot guide mentioned this name and said that it was so called as there were images of Lord Shiva, Goddess Parvati and their son Lord Karthikeya (also, called Skanda). This particular Shrine faced the West while the main Shiva Shrine faced the other way.
The East-facing shrine was deliberately so that the first rays of the sun fell on the Black Shiva Linga. While I could not see the shrine again this time, I did capture these images through the scaffoldings.
The third shrine is a go between the two Shiva Shrines and has a figure of a reclining Vishnu. I remember this from my earlier visit and also, recall how narrow and high those steps to this shrine were. While you are busy examining these shrines, don’t miss out on the lovely carved Nandis that adorn the entire wall that surrounds the Shore temple. And if you care to examine these even more closely, amidst the Nandis, you will find the Tiger faced Yelis and the Vishnu avatar of boars – Varaha. If you have read my earlier article on the Tiger Caves of Mahabalipuram, you will be able to connect the two monuments owing to these Yelis.
Now, the curious fact about this Shore temple. Notice the elaborate roofs. Click through this link to my article on the Pancha Rathas and check out Dharmaraja Ratha. Do you see something that connects the two? Do you notice the similarity? Seems to me that the theory of the Pancha Rathas being a model for temples elsewhere might just be true!
Miniature temple at the Shore Temple
Now comes a part that interested me a lot. A newly excavated Miniature temple, right beside the main Shore temple structure. This temple was accidentally discovered in the 1990s and hence, I had missed it on my first visit. I regret missing this owing to crowds during my second visit but am glad that I found these this time on.
This temple has a huge sculpture of the boar – Varaha behind its miniature shrine. The temple is below the ground level and as per our guide, the circular depression was actually a well. They say that this temple was submerged in water and was also, called Jalashayana.
Along with this discovery, several smaller artifacts and coins were excavated from this Shore temple campus and that honestly, was one of the key reasons that I was watching my step through this entire tour of the Shore temple. Who knows, you might just find a new idol or even a secret chamber!
The Durga Shrine at the Shore Temple
This according to me, was one of the most well-preserved parts of the Shore temple of Mahabalipuram. The stone sculpture of a tiger with Goddess Durga mounting it stood just beside the main Shore temple shrines. What made this a riveting find for me was the presence of a small chamber with an even smaller engraving within. I could not identify the engraving within, though it did seem like a miniature one of Durga itself. These small discoveries made me feel that there were secrets within this temple that still lived on and we 21st-century humans, were not able to decode them.
The Mysterious 7 Pagodas of Mahabalipuram
This section of my blog is possibly the most mysterious and fascinating part of the Shore Temple of Mahabalipuram. The one thing that I deliberately omitted from the history of this temple was the fact that the earliest mention of the Shore temple was in the European accounts of sailors who came to India. They referred to the Shore temple as a Pagoda and used it as a beacon to guide them to the coast. In fact, the accounts mention the Shore temple as 7 pagodas.
This remained a curious fact as there was only one Pagoda in sight, until the Tsunami of 2004 which hit the Bay of Bengal. The Tsunami swept the waters away to reveal hidden temples kilometers away from the shore, under the sea. Following this up, the archaeological team and the Navy have found remains of similar temples underwater. I could sight several ancient artifacts and pieces from these temples that were returned back to the shore by the Tsunami. You can see them along the walls of the temple.
Naturally, I want to know more. I want to know what happened. I do want to rediscover it all. And I would not be surprised if you too, feel as intrigued. Tell me what you are feeling right now after reading this. Is it as I predicted at the start of this post or is it just me being overly curious? Waiting to hear from you.
- The closest airport to Mahabalipuram is Chennai. You can even take a train to Chennai or Pondicherry and then, head to Mahabalipuram by road
- There are plenty of taxis and buses available to take you to Mahabalipuram from both these cities.
- The Shore temple is bound to be part of your itinerary if you are a part of the Southern Splendour Golden Chariot tour.
- If you are your own, you will still be able to find the Shore temple easily as it is the center of Mahabalipuram.
- Most of the general advice on Mahabalipuram can be found in the Travel Tips section of this article on Mahabalipuram
- The entrance tickets to the Shore temple cost INR 30 for Indians and INR 500 for the Non-Indians. Please do not lose the tickets as they allow you access to all the other monuments in Mahabalipuram
- The Shore temple is open from 6 am to 6 pm on all days. Avoid public holidays as the temple gets crowded
- The best time to see the temple is either at Sunrise or Sunset when it glows with the sun rays
- The steps of the temple are fairly uneven and high too. A good pair of travel flats is high recommended.
- There are plenty of shops and restaurants around the Shore temple.You can buy some local memorabilia from here. However, remember to bargain well
- Remember to engage an authorized guide in enjoying the mysteries of the temple.
- Around December, there is a huge Indian classical dance festival held here. They say that the temple looks amazing under those lights. You might want to consider a trip around then.
P.S: I visited theShore Temple Mahabalipuram this time, as a part of the Golden Chariot tour, organized by Karnataka State Tourism Development Corporation.