In my previous posts, I have mentioned Hampi several times and every time, I wonder how I would be able to do justice to this huge treasure trove of heritage. There are just so many places to see in Hampi that one post is not going to do justice to this place. A UNESCO heritage site, this ghost town goes back to the era of the Ramayana, Ashoka the Great and the Vijayanagara kingdom. Hampi has over 500 monuments – some famous by themselves like the Virupaksha temple and the Vittala Temple, some still being excavated, and some still awaiting their glory.

In a lot of ways, I compare Hampi to Rome. Ruins on the left, ruins on the right and maybe even where you stand. It is a complete treasure trove of history. With this post, I begin a 3 trail series of this UNESCO Heritage Site that takes you through the key attractions of Hampi. My trail one starts near the Hampi bazaar and takes you to the beautiful Virupaksha temple of Hampi and beyond. There are 13 suggested sites along this trail. So, stay with me as we head to one of the icons of Hampi – the Virupaksha temple.
Contents
- 1 Hampi Trail One leading to Virupaksha temple
- 1.1 Sasivekalu GaneshaÂ
- 1.2 Kadalekalu Ganesha
- 1.3 Hemakuta Temples behind Virupaksha temple
- 1.4 Manmatha Tank Shrine
- 1.5 Virupaksha templeÂ
- 1.6 Veerabhadra Temple on Matanga Hill
- 1.7 Krishna Bazaar and temple
- 1.8 Saraswati Temple in Hampi
- 1.9 Badavilinga Temple
- 1.10 Lakshmi Narasimha Temple in Hampi
- 1.11 Chandikesvara Temple – last stop of Virupaksha Temple Trail
- 1.12 Getting there:
- 1.13 Travel tips:
About Hampi
Hindu Legends connect Hampi to the Goddess Pampa, popularly called Parvati. As the story goes, she was in love with Lord Shiva who refused to marry her. In order to win him over, she began to live like a hermit. Over time, she succeeded and got married to the Lord. The place where she lived like a hermit is currently referred to as the Hemakuta temples, right behind the famous Virupaksha temple. That is believed to be the first mention of Hampi in history.



Later during the age of Ramayana, the place with its hills became Kishkinda – the lair of Sugriva, Hanuman and his band of monkeys. It is believed that Ram and Lakshman took shelter here while heading to Lanka to rescue Sita. Over time, this land near the river Tungabhadra saw many rulers. From the Chalukyas to the Hoysalas and finally the Vijaynagar Empire. Each one of them added their own touch.
Hampi is mentioned in several ancient Persian and Portuguese texts where it is described as one of the most beautiful places. It was second to only Beijing and was extremely prosperous till the Muslim invasion in the 1560s. They plundered and broke the city to ruins. It was never rebuilt and got buried in the sands of time. What you now have is an entire kingdom that is slowly being excavated. Let’s get on with the first trail to discover it all.
Hampi Trail One leading to Virupaksha temple
Sasivekalu GaneshaÂ



“Sasivekalu” means mustard seeds and as you can guess, from the picture, why the name. This is a gigantic 8 foot tall, monolithic Ganesha, greeting you as you begin your trail. If you notice, there is a snake around the belly. Legend has it that Lord Ganesha was very fond of eating and his belly threatened burst one day. To prevent that, it is said that he tied a snake around his belly and that is what is depicted on this idol. The carving on the Ganesha is very beautifully done, some of it ravaged over time.



Kadalekalu Ganesha



Right next to the Sasivekalu Ganesha is another statue of this God. This time, it is one of the largest statues of Hampi. The Ganesha is a monolithic one, carved in stone. Kadalekalu means Bengal Gram in the local language and the statue is said to resemble just that. The noteworthy thing about this Hampi attraction are the intricately carved pillars around it. The structure is very typical of Vijayanagar architecture.
Hemakuta Temples behind Virupaksha temple



Moving along the trail towards the famed Virupaksha temple, you have to climb up the boulders. What unfolds is a landscape dotted by multiple temples with a pyramid-like roof. These are the Hemakuta temples. Some say that these are actually Jain temples, while some believe that they are dedicated to Lord Shiva. This is where the Goddess Pampa (Parvati) did her penance. To distract Shiva and aid Parvati, Lord Kama (God of Love) showed a rain of Gold (Hema). Lord Shiva got angry and reduced him to ashes by opening his third eye.



One look at the place and you know there is a possibility that it was covered by a shower of Gold. The temples look really gorgeous at all times of the day. The golden glow of the structures makes it one of the best places to see a sunset in Hampi. I would not say no to a Sunrise too.



This place is surrounded by boulders all around and you can spot some beautiful, cool caves to explore. For the birders, it is an additional treat as you can spot many different varieties here. Like these gorgeous Parakeets that are almost followed us around the boulders.
Peeking between those boulders is the lovely Virupaksha temple. This is a lovely place to capture a photo of this iconic monument.
Manmatha Tank Shrine



Technically, this is something you can visit after you have seen Virupaksha temple. However, I am saving the highlight of this Hampi trail for the last. This is the tank for the ritualistic bath the devotees have before they enter the shrines of the temple. The tank has been dated back to the 8th century and has some shrines around it. Of this, the Durga shrine is still alive and you can still see devotees offering their prayers here. The shrine has the fierce form of Goddess Durga in it – called Mahishasuramardini.
Virupaksha templeÂ






The temple is made of stone and is so beautiful that it almost has a different color at every time of the day. The entrance is a 9-storied grandiose gateway with beautiful carvings. In fact, the facet of this gateway (gopuram) is almost like a landmark of Hampi. Each tier has a story carved on it and it could take you over a day to decode them all.



The gateway opens up to an entire complex of sanctums, royal corridors, and even a temple kitchen. Each of these is bordered by magnificent pillars. In one corner you have this huge marriage hall called Kalyana Mantappa while right opposite it is another large hall with 100 pillars. A Nandi faces the central sanctum, indicating the presence of Lord Shiva within.



The highlight of this place is the “inverted shadow” that is formed on one of the walls of the temple. A flight of stairs leads you to this area and once you enter this spot, you can see an inverted shadow of the highest gopuram (temple pillar) forming on the wall, all through a tiny hole. The guide told us that this is by design – the whole light and camera effect. I would not mind believing that for it adds a bit of mystique to this lovely monument.



Every shrine within the Virupaksha temple complex has a story of its own. Sharing that would make a complete post. While I leave that for a different day, let me draw your attention to one last feature. In the Shiva temple, don’t miss the murals and stucco work on the walls and ceiling. Various scenes of the Mahabharata, including one of Draupadi’s Swayamwar and that of Shiva’s family. The paintings on the wall are made with vegetable ink and hence the same are quite visible






As you exit the Virupaksha temple, you will see a long line of mantapas, which served as the Hampi bazaar in the olden times. Also, called the Virupaksha bazaar, this seemed to be an important market among all the others that are found in Hampi. They say that the area was full of residences of the nobles. As you walk along the ancient bazaar, you will finally reach a monolithic statue of Nandi. The Nandi faces the Virupaksha temple and this is pretty much expected given that it always faces the shrine of Shiva.
Veerabhadra Temple on Matanga Hill
After the Hampi Bazaar, you can return back to the Sasivekalu Ganesha. Alternately, you can hike up the hill near the monolithic Nandi to get to the Veerbhadra temple. There are a series of steps that are the easiest to reach this temple and this can be a long climb. Along the way, there are a few carvings and stone sculptures. As you reach on the top, you can get a panoramic view of the entire Hampi – truly a beautiful sight.



The Matanga Hill itself is connected to a legend from the epic Ramayana. The king of monkeys – Sugriva was driven out of his kingdom by his elder brother – Vali. To escape him, he hid on this hill as it was out of bounds for Vali owing to a curse. The hiking is pretty easy but can get a little solitary.
Krishna Bazaar and temple
This is a bazaar that was uncovered recently. Since it is attached to a small Krishna temple, it is referred to as Krishna Bazaar. You can spot this bazaar while you are atop Matanga Hill itself.



The Krishna temple is another important attraction on this Virupaksha Hampi trail. It was built by the famous Vijayanagara ruler – Krishnadevaraya. Before you enter the temple, you can see the lovely temple tank (pushkarni) still erect and standing. The temple itself is a treasure trove of art. One of the prominent carvings on the temple showcases the Dashavatars of Vishnu (10 incarnations of Vishnu).
Read about the Dashavatars carved on the Hoysaleshwara temple in Halebid
Saraswati Temple in Hampi



Badavilinga Temple



Lakshmi Narasimha Temple in Hampi



I actually, covered this magnificent temple in my route three that is centered around the Queen’s zenana. You can, however, see it even on this route. It is one of the largest statues in Hampi. It is the ferocious form of Narasimha – one of the 10 incarnations of Vishnu. It is called the Ugrasen Narasimha. What you see now is just half the structure. The rest of it – a significant bit, was destroyed.
This significant bit was the statue of Goddess Lakshmi who lay on Narasimha’s lap. She is said to be hugging the Lord for all that remains of that statue is her hand on his back.
Chandikesvara Temple – last stop of Virupaksha Temple Trail
There are a lot of other minor excavations and structures along this Hampi trail. Covering these 13 important structures itself can take you half a day, with the most significant time being spent in the highlight of this trail – Virupaksha temple. If this is trail is mindboggling, wait for the other two trails. They will leave you spellbound. So, take a break and ponder about what you just saw. Comment in and let me know your favorite.
Check out Hampi Trail Two through the musical pillars and stone chariot of Vittala Temple
Don’t miss the royal centers of the 14th century Vijayanagara Empire on this Hampi Trail 3.Â
Bonus – an Offbeat trail of Hampi across River Tungabhadra.









Getting there:
- There are overnight trains available from Bangalore to Hospet.  Hampi is just 12 km from Hospet and it is the best to stay at Hospet.
- Buses from Bangalore and Goa are available on an everyday basis.
- Travel by road is also, not a bad option as the roads to this place are quite well-developed and well-maintained.
- Hospet has recently opened an airport with limited flights from Bangalore.
Travel tips:
- Â Best time to visit Hampi is from October to February. Make a note of the Hampi festival in January.
- Carry lots and lots of water – no matter what season.
- Flat and comfortable shoes with comfortable cotton clothing will make the sight-seeing more comfortable.
- There are plenty of good restaurants near the Hampi bazaar that serve some good food and variety of cuisines- including some good Israeli and middle-eastern food. Try out the Mango tree for some yummy food.
- Hiring a guide would be advisable as Hampi has a lot to offer and sometimes, identifying these monuments and their secrets on your own may not be very feasible. There are very few clear signages and hence, not every site is self-explanatory.
- While hiring a guide, insist on the ones that have a Permit from the tourism board.
- Hampi is best explored on foot and cycle. However, cars and autos are also, available. The cycles can be rented at Hampi Bazaar.
- For Hotels in Hampi, one could opt for the small guest houses in Hampi. However, it is advisable to stay in Hospet, which has better options in terms of homestays and hotels.
Disclaimer: This article includes affiliate links. This means that at no cost to you, I will receive a small commission if you purchase through my link. Thank you for supporting me with this.
Popularly referred to as a Restless Ball of Energy. My Mom refuses to entertain my complaints about my equally restless daughter & assures my husband that I was born with a travel bug.
I am a Post-Graduate in Marketing by qualification and a travel blogger by passion. Besides travel, I enjoy photography and if you don’t find me at my desk, I would be out playing badminton or swimming or just running. I believe in planning for every long weekend through the year. And when I cannot travel physically, I travel virtually through this travel blog. My travel stories have also, got published on various websites and magazines including BBC Travel, Lonely Planet India and Jetwings.
India Great
Nice post. Being in Karnataka I never visited Hampi. Now waiting eagerly to go to Hampi. One must see Hampi in his life.
Chikmagalur Homestays
Restless Traveler
Absolutely. You must go and see this lovely place. Do share your experience when you do.
Cheers
Arun Prasadh
Nice pics. I did have lunch in mango tree during my trip. The food was good.
Ranjani Rao
Amazing write-up.. it was just like a virtual tour.. thanks for sharing..
Indrani
One of my fav places to visit.
Love the clarity in your pictures.
ArchanaC Kapoor
Such a beautiful temple. I love the first Ganesha pic.
Mridula
So much beauty! The Ganesha legend about the snake was fascinating. And I have not been there even once!
Ami Bhat
Yep, so much that I still remember it and keep recommending it to people.
Ami Bhat
Thanks Ranjani. That is what the intention was.
Ami Bhat
Thanks a ton Indrani. 🙂
Ami Bhat
Thanks Archana. Hampi is full of wonders.
Ami Bhat
Mridula – time to plan a trip down south….with me as your guide 😉
Gaurav
Relived my Hampi travel…
http://www.lucky-vagabond.com/2015/07/hampi-temples.html
Ami Bhat
Glad you could do so. Will be stopping by your post soon.
Matthew and Heather
Beautiful Site. We try to visit as many UNESCO sites as possible. The parrots surprised me.
Ami
The entire Ghost town is amazing. You should visit it.
Nikki
I’ve been hearing a lot about Hampi lately, the temple looks incredible! Very informative post…I like hearing about the stories legends behind masterpieces like this one!
Ami
Thanks Nikki. It is one of the most searched destination on the internet in India.
Kevin Wagar
What an incredible place! The parrots and the breathtaking Virupaksha temple are worth the trip alone!
Ami
Wait till you see the other wonders. Have a look at the other trails and I am sure you will have a tough time deciding which one of these top your charts
Rob Taylor
Each time I read about the legends behind some of the statues and sights, I’m impressed with the amount of work and dedication shown by those who’ve labored over them. Maybe it’s because of my own views/beliefs and that I don’t connect with a history like this, I don’t know. Either way, I’m beyond fascinated by places like these and the whole of Indian culture/history.
Ami
Thanks Rob. India continues to fascinate me even now. 🙂
fittwotravel
Such a detailed post! The temples are breathtaking! Nice pictures
Ami
Thanks guys
Crazy travelista (@Crazytravelista)
Wow, Ive never heard of this place but it looks absolutely incredible! The details in those structures is amazing. Great pics!
Ami
The place is one of the most searched UNESCO destinations in India. You must check out the other posts on Hampi as well on my blog.
Taylor
Once again I am amazed by the beauty and detail.
Ami
Thank you
2traveldads
I can’t imagine the amount of time it took to complete all of those carvings. Really an incredible complex!
Ami
It sure is amazing. And I too, keep wondering how much time it must have taken for the entire set of buildings to come up
journalofnomads
Gorgeous photos! I enjoyed reading the stories and legends behind the carvings!
Ami
Thank you Cynthia. Glad you liked it.
Corinne
Such a gorgeous site! I would love to go. Loved the Ganesha statue; he’s my favorite. The other carvings are also stunning. Hampi, you are on my list.
Ami
And rightly so, it is a treasure trove of history and heritage.
nonsoloamore
To be honest I’ve never heard of this place before but it looks amazing. Thank you for the Tips!
Ami
Hampi has been one of the most searched UNESCO destinations in India. Not many know about it but it is catching on.
Taylor's Tracks
I’ve mentioned this before of how much I love the detail in temples, but I also love how in India everything has a meaning behind it, especially the names. It holds so much history that makes it so much more special than any modern day things.
Ami
Yes, the history and heritage makes each place in India so special.
Christina
The complex seems very well preserved. There detailed carvings are exquisite!
Ami
Thank you Christina. Though I think they can do better with some maintenance here.
Jennifer Sikora
There is so much beauty here. I would so love to see parrots in their natural habitat and capture a few photos. This is so beautiful!
Ami
Thank you Jennifer. It was fun here with the camera. And am sure you will have a blast too
WyldfamilyTravel (@wyldfamtravel)
Amazing sculptures and temples as always in India. You photo’s always show great sights of India
Ami
Thank you Mark.
Patricia - Ze Wandering Frogs
This is a great complex, looks beautiful! We saw the temple in Madurai, so gorgeous! Love all these Indian temples
Ami
Madurai Meenakshi Temple is really gorgeous and I totally loved it. If you liked the history and the art there, you will definitely like it here.
Doreen Pendgracs
Hello, Ami. I’ve not yet been to India, but I would definitely like to visit the Virupaksha Tempke should I have the opportunity. It looks amazing!
Ami
Thanks Doreen. I have a feeling you will love Hampi as a destination.
Jatin Chhaba
Hampi is amazing and have plans to visit here in winters. If I am not wrong, there is a chariot type structure here?
Ami
Thanks Jatin. The Chariot temple and musical pillars are in the Vittala temple. I have written about them in the second trail. Have a look.
Mar Pages
I love the architectural detail in temples! These look great. Thanks for the fantastic tips too!
Ami
Thanks Mar Pages.
Matthew and Heather
Another location added to our list. We will need at least a year to see all the sites we have added from your posts 🙂
Ami
Thanks guys. I think you might just need more. When are you getting here ?
Chris
Every time I see and read of Hampi, it climbs a little higher in my must visit list!
Is it a place you could lose a full day or even more in?
Ami
I would say more. For me three days were not enough.
Neha
Amazing! Hampi is on my list of must visit places this year! Will refer this again while planning the trip!
Ami
Thanks Neha.
Kimberly Erin
The view from the Hemakuta temples looks so insane, wow. All the temples are so intricate its amazing.
Ami
You should really experience the sunset from up there. It is gorgeous. The golden glow over the hills.
Kassie- The Fly Away Life
Wow these temples look amazing! Love all of the details.
Ami
Thanks a ton
Adam, Bite of Iceland
I was in India in February this year and Hampi was definitely a highlight of our one-month trip. I’m an art historian, so for me this place was a paradise. I especially enjoyed hanging around the temples early in the morning, just before sunrise, when there were so few people and the heat hasn’t started to pour from the sky.
Ami
Thanks Adam. Glad you liked Hampi. It is one destination that escapes a lot of travelers to India. Hoping that people realize its potential soon.
Jessica Ayun
I love exploring heritage sites. I am always overwhelmed with temples. Seeing the sunset over the hills would be spectacular.
Ami
The Sunset over the Hemakuta temples is indeed a sight to behold. Hope you can get here soon.
Vyjay Rao
This is one place that I want to visit again and again and also read about again and again. The stones of this once great city seem to echo the stories of a once great civilization. When it comes to Hampi, once is not enough!
Ami
Thanks Vyjay. I feel the same way about Hampi – want to go again and again
Hemangini
such a majestic place…yet I have not visited! gotta go.. thanks for this wonderful post.