Decrypting the Crypt: Bhool Bhulaiya at Bara Imambara in Lucknow

Was it right or left? 
And did one go up the stairs or past it? 
The Bhool Bhulaiya in Bara Imambara Lucknow tended to baffle the best.

“It’s pretty impossible to get out of that maze without help” – That is what my friend told me after threw up a challenge at me. This was a few years ago when she had visited the famous labyrinth of Bada Imambara Lucknow – Bhool Bhulaiya. She could not stop gushing about how elaborate it was and how anyone could lose their sense of direction here. She said that she was pretty sure that even with my sense of direction (Which I am proud to say is fairly good) would not be able to get out. I had to wait for a couple of years to take that one and when I did, I discovered more than just the labyrinth. I found a gorgeous heritage monument – the Bara Imambara in Lucknow.

The entrance to Bara Imambara, Lucknow
The entrance to Bara Imambara, Lucknow

The moment I accepted the challenge, I read up on the Bara Imambara Lucknow on Google. As much as I wanted to head to Lucknow then, the opportunity presented itself only this year when Lucknow became our first stop enroute the Epic Indo- Nepal Road Trip. While the rest of my team was waiting to reach Lucknow to satiate their salivating taste buds, I had strapped on my camera, tightened my belt and donned the hat of Indiana Jones. All to set to take on the archaic challenge my friend had set on me. What happened follows with my thrilling exploration of the stunning Bhool Bhulaiya Lucknow and the Bara Imambara. Consider this as your Lucknow Bara Imambara guide – a key attraction in the list of the historical places of Lucknow.

An introduction to the Bara Imambara

“Bara” means big while “Imambara” refers to a Shrine for the Shia Muslims.  The Shrine is essentially, for the Muharrum festival where the Shia Muslims commemorate the death of the grandson of Prophet Muhammad. The Imambara is where the Muharrum procession concludes and this one was built by the Nawab of Awadh – Asaf-Ud-Daulah in the 1780s. The huge complex of the Bada Imambara includes much more than just the Imambara. It includes the Asafi Mosque, a stepwell or the Shahi Baoli and the famous labyrinth in Lucknow – Bhool Bhulaiya. The same complex now even, houses the grave of its creator – a fine memory for this structure wasn’t just built for religious purposes but is a symbol of the benevolence of a worthy ruler.

Asafi Mosque and Rumi Darwarza as seen from the roof of Bara Imambara
Asafi Mosque and Rumi Darwarza as seen from the roof of Bara Imambara

Bara Imambara History – Who built the famous Bhool Bhulaiya Lucknow?

Legend has it that Lucknow was hit by a famine and that affected the livelihood of people here. It was then that Nawab Asaf-Ud-Daulah commissioned the Bada Imambara. This helped the needy with their daily earnings. As astute that he was, he did not forget the noblemen. Their job began at night and it was to break down whatever was built during the day. This helped keep work going and what could have taken a lesser amount of time, took 10 plus years to build. A perfect balancing act that is now symbolized by this timeless monument.

The Architecture of Bara Imambara Lucknow

The map of Bara Imambara Lucknow
The map of Bara Imambara Lucknow

From the moment we walked in through those elaborate gates of Bara Imambara, I knew that this place was going to throw up a lot of stories and surprises. The grand structure behind those sprawling gardens was calling out to us to get closer and start exploring. In fact, the structure that I saw had me fooled. I assumed that was the main building but it, in fact, was the main gate to the Bada Imambara. There were actually two gateways to this monument – one that I had just passed and the second that I had in front of me.

The first gate to Bara Imambara
The first gate to Bara Imambara
Naubat Khana - a part of the main gate to Bara Imambara
Naubat Khana – a part of the main gate to Bara Imambara

Besides the lovely designs etched on the first gate, pay close attention to the chambers along the arched passageway that you pass. You will see a gong hanging there. As history goes, the place also had huge drums within the chambers. This is the Naubat Khana. The arrival of important guests was announced by the men here by beating the drum and the gongs. Some say that even time was announced in this manner. It is likely that you might miss that as it is a part of the ticketing office of this Lucknow attraction today.

The 2nd gateway to the entrance of the Bara Imambara
The 2nd gateway to the entrance of the Bara Imambara
The arched entrance to Bara Imambara with the Fish Symbol of the Nawab
The arched entrance to Bara Imambara with the Fish Symbol of the Nawab

Note the fish etched onto the gateway – this was the symbol of the Nawabs and you will find them on most of the structures commissioned by the clan. The arched windows and the gateways led to another sprawling layout where to my right I had the grand Asafi Mosque, on the left was the Shahi Baoli while straight ahead lay the Bara Imambara with the epic Bhool Bhulaiya maze. There are plenty of interesting and unique facts about Bara Imambara that makes it one attraction in India that you should not miss. And most of them are related to architecture.

Facts about Bara Imambara Lucknow

The 2nd entrance to Bara Imambara as seen from the roof of Bhool Bhulaiya
The 2nd entrance to Bara Imambara as seen from the roof of Bhool Bhulaiya
  • The entire structure of the Bara Imambara has no metal or wood used. It is in fact, made of edible material like daal, limestone and Rice Husks. These are called as Lakhori bricks (Lakhauri bricks) and can be found in most of the monuments built by the Nawabs.
  • The high ceilings have no beams supporting it. In fact, the Bara Imambara is considered as one of the World’s largest arched structures.
  • To give support to the high ceilings, the structure was made hollow and the roofs are of different heights. This led to the accidental construction of the Labyrinth – the Bhul Bhulaiya.

What? Did I just tell you that this fascinating structure – my place of mission,  was constructed not by design? However, that is a fact and frankly, a bit disappointing. I was hoping for some tale of how it was made to confuse the enemies and strategic reasons. Nonetheless, soon my disappointment was dissipated. For then, came the interesting stories of this labyrinth but after it was constructed. 😉

The Bara Imambara with the Bhool Bhulaiya
The Bara Imambara with the Bhool Bhulaiya

Three Chambers within Bara Imambara Lucknow

The outer corridor of Bara Imambara
The outer corridor of Bara Imambara

Shoes off and bare feet on a scorching floor outside the Bada Imambara is enough to get anyone to rush right into the building. The corridor that greets you before the main chamber has this cooling effect on you with its pale green interiors, high painted ceiling and the colorful lamps that hang from it.

The Chinese Hall in Bara Imambara
The Chinese Hall in Bara Imambara
Ceiling in the Chinese Chamber
Ceiling in the Chinese Chamber

This is where we started off with our guide who explained that there three main chambers inside the Bara Imambara. The first one on the left (East ) was the Chinese Chamber, the central long Chamber called the Persian Chamber and the last chamber on the right or the West called the Kharbooza Chamber or the Watermelon chamber. I don’t think my guide liked it when I asked him why those names for he did not have a plausible reason except for that their names were owing to their appearance. I am a little skeptical even about that for there was nothing really Chinese about that Chinese Chamber. 😉

The Persian Hall in Bara Imambara
The Persian Hall in Bara Imambara

The name of the Persian Hall befits the hallway for at least there were some elements of Persian design within it. The central chamber is the one that houses the tomb of its creator – both its sponsor, Nawab Asaf-Ud-Daulah and its architect – Khifayatullah. The story of its architect is one of those stories that I was referring to earlier. Apparently, this building design contract was awarded to the winner of an architecture design concept hosted by the Nawab. And when he had completed the building, Khifayatullah was questioned on whether the ceilings would hold up without the beams. To this he said, place me right below it and it will still not fall.

Tomb of Nawab Asaf-Ud-Daulah
Tomb of Nawab Asaf-Ud-Daulah
The tomb of the Nawab as seen from the upper corridors of Bara Imambara
The tomb of the Nawab as seen from the upper corridors of Bara Imambara
The Tazia in Bara Imambara
The Tazia in Bara Imambara

The central hall has several other interesting artifacts that you need to watch out for. This includes certain paintings and candelabra that have eternal flames lit around the tombs. There are the decorated Tazia – miniatures of the famed Karbalas that are crucial to the Muharrum festival. Ancient texts, portraits, photos and Candelabras decorate the rest of the hall. Our guide zipped us through it and whisked us to the first level of this Chamber for some more magic.

The acoustics of Bada Imambara

Through the narrow passages along the steep stairs, you are ushered onto the sides of what parapet that overlooks the central hall. We were all asked to stand in silence in a single file so that the magical properties of this hall could be demonstrated. I think this is when all the guides in the Bara Imambara become dramatic and begin their spiel by saying – ” Have you heard of the saying that Walls have ears? This is where we will demonstrate the same“

Matchstick lit at the other end of the Persian Hall in Bara Imambara to be heard where we were standing
Matchstick lit at the other end of the Persian Hall in Bara Imambara to be heard where we were standing

A matchstick was lit at the end of the 50m hall and through that silence, you could hear it right where we stood, at the other end of the hall. Such were the acoustics that a secret told within these walls would not remain one 😉

Through the tunnels of Bhool Bhulaiya Lucknow

The narrow passages of Bhool Bhulaiya at Bara Imambara
The narrow passages of Bhool Bhulaiya at Bara Imambara

1000+ ways to get in but only one way out!

That is what I remember our proud guide telling us. As he led the way out from the main building to enter the steep staircase to the famous Bhool Bhulaiya. He told us that there were over 480 doorways that led to various tunnels within the Bara Imambara and also, away from it to as far as Delhi, Agra and Faizabad – the latter being the capital of Awadh.

Read about the Gulab Bari - the abandoned grave of the forefathers of the Nawab in Faizabad. Before it became a garden of tomb, it used to be an important place in the erstwhile Nawabi capital for religious functions. Despite the ruins, the glorious architecture of the Nawabs is unmissable here.

Our guide took us in groups to show several of those narrow tunnels and regale us with stories of how various people, including the British, have got lost in those tunnels, never to be found again. Thus, a lot of these were now closed to the public. He said a lot of them had even died here owing to the claustrophobia that the low and high roofs and narrow passageways created. The dank interiors definitely do not help the cause but in the end, that does makes the labyrinth so deadly. Me? I could feel the adrenaline pumping for I was getting close to my challenge.

On the roof of Bhool Bhulaiya in Bara Imambara

One part of the roof of Bara Imambara, Lucknow
One part of the roof of Bara Imambara, Lucknow
View of the other Lucknow landmarks from the roof - Asafi mosque and at the far end - Rumi Darwarza
View of the other Lucknow landmarks from the roof – Asafi mosque and at the far end – Rumi Darwarza

Three lefts, two rights and we were out on the roof with its intricate windows called the Jharokhas. The numerous arched doorways opened up to both sides of the building from where you could see not just the rest of the campus but also, the city of Lucknow. The minarets and the entire structure served well as a watchtower, which I suspect would be one of the uses this place was put to. The flat roof could also, possibly be one of the places that were used for prayers, with the Asafi mosque so close by.

The scenic jharokhas of Bara Imambara, Lucknow
The scenic jharokhas of Bara Imambara, Lucknow

Finally – the challenge of Bhool Bhulaiya

Bhool Bhulaiya, Bara Imambara
Challenge completed – getting out of Bhool Bhulaiya, Bara Imambara

Having spent a few cool moments (and literally so with the evening sun and the breeze), we finally got our challenge. Our guide ushered us back into the labyrinth and gave us 5 minutes to get ourselves out to the ground floor before he was to rescue us. The funny thing was I was quite ready and confident about it. Somehow, the human GPS in me was working well and confidently I made my turns to emerge out at the staircase that led us back to the ground floor in less than 5 minutes. And yes, you can applaud now! For Challenge completed successfully!.

I suppose I am ready for those underground passages now if someone could let me in. This challenge was way too simple! 😉

The Shahi Baoli or the Stepwell of Bara Imambara in Lucknow

Emerging out, I discovered yet another challenge. This crypt wasn’t the only one within this Lucknow historical place. Hidden in the form of a stepwell, lay another fascinating structure of mazes and windows. The Baoli, as is called in the local language, was more than just a storage for water. It served as a hiding place for the Nawabs from the enemies. In the words of the guide – “The ones inside could see you but you will not be able to see them within”. 

The reflection of one of the windows in the Shahi Baoli of Bara Imambara
The reflection of one of the windows in the Shahi Baoli of Bara Imambara

A flight of stairs led me down to the five-storied Shahi Baoli. It is said that the stepwell was connected to the River Gomti and used to have enough water through the year. They say that there were provisions for hot water here and it was used for baths. The various galleries and corridors within the stepwell has a few halls and resting rooms for people.

One of the many levels of the Shahi Baoli
One of the many levels of the Shahi Baoli

With the sun setting on the other side of the Baoli, it was quite dark and damp inside. Once I was in, I realized that this maze could actually rattle a person. The guide told us a fascinating mystery connected to this well. With the riches of Nawab, came in the greed and envy of the British. They kept trying to get the maximum out of him. Fearing an attack on this treasure, the Nawab asked his treasurer – a Mool Chand Rastogi, to stash it within the monument. As ordered, the treasurer hid it all and threw away the key and map in the well.

The artistic windows of the Shahi Baoli
The artistic windows of the Shahi Baoli

The treasure is rumored to be hidden even now – maybe in this crypt of the several others within the Bara Imambara. No one knows where. The treasurer is said to have taken the secret within him to his death. He apparently, committed suicide in this well. The British came and tried their best to find it but were quite unsuccessful.

If you like stories about the unfound treasures of heritage India, then you must read up about the Jaigarh Fort in Rajasthan. 
The CCTV feature of the Shahi Baoli
The CCTV feature of the Shahi Baoli

Wait– the mysteries of this monument is not yet over. The guide showcased its best feature just before we exited. He took us to one particular window and asked us to peer down at the little reflection in the water. We could spot a few tourists – one wearing a red t-shirt standing in the lawns of Bara Imambara. If you looked away and around, all you could see were the solid walls of the Shahi Baoli. This, in the guide’s words, is the “CCTV technology of the Nawabs“. It is the manner in which this window is positioned that it allows the people within the Baoli to see outside but the outsiders cannot see anyone within. 😉

A quick look at the Asafi Mosque

Asafi Mosque at Sunset, Bara Imambara, Lucknow
Asafi Mosque at Sunset, Bara Imambara, Lucknow

Besides the Baoli, don’t miss the beautiful Asafi (Asfi) Mosque at Sunset. The Orange glow that sets on it, makes the entire silhouette look fascinating. The mosque completes the Imambara set up as a religious monument. It is a key mosque that buzzes with activity during the Muharrum festival. As a non-muslim, I could not go in but walking around it, revealed its elaborate decor and construction.

One of the minaret of the Asfi Mosque
One of the minarets of the Asfi Mosque

Shrouded with tales of its unique construction and the unsolved mysteries of its crypt, the Bara Imambara has my highest recommendation on places to visit in Lucknow. Even if you are in Lucknow for one day, you got to squeeze in 2 hours for this heritage destination. Try and get in here just around sunset as there are corners like the one below that glow in the setting sun.

Sunset at Bara Imambara
Sunset at Bara Imambara

Well, I am sure that you are pretty convinced. Just so that you don’t forget, try pinning this up to your board as a must-do on a Lucknow tour. Message in and let me know which part of this monument was the most amazing for you!

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Bhool Bhulaiya
Bara Imambara

How to get to the Bara Imambara in Lucknow?

Lucknow is easily accessible by road and rail from any city in India. There are plenty of regular flights to Lucknow. Once in Lucknow, you can either take a rickshaw or a taxi to get to Bara Imambara. You plan to take the metro, then consider the following stations for Bara Imambara.
– Charbagh metro station
– Durgapuri metro station
– Alambagh metro station

All these metro stations are 3 km from the landmark Bhool Bhulaiya. You can hire one of the local autos or cabs to get from the metro to Bara Imambara

Where to stay in Lucknow?

Among the various areas to stay in Lucknow, I recommend Gomtinagar. You will get plenty of hotels for every possible budget in this area. Also, the location is quite central to this city with enough of public transport available.  There are options of hotels near Bara Imambara in Lucknow as well.

What is the best time to visit Bara Imambara?

Bara Imambara and Bhool Bhulaiya is open from 6 am to 5 pm every day. I would recommend the time after 2 pm when it is still day light. Your tour of Bara Imambara will take you at least 2 hours after which you can walk to Rumi Darwaza and catch the Chota Imambara. These two attractions look lovely in the evening when they are all lit up.

How much are the entrance tickets for Bada Imambara?

The entrance tickets to the Bara Imambara costs INR 50 for Indians and INR 500 if you are a foreigner. The camera charges are extra.

It is advisable to take a guide here. The guide charges are as displayed at the ticket counter itself.

Travel Tips

  • You will need to remove your shoes once inside the Bara Imambara. Temple socks are available for a small price.
  • Steer clear of the low parapets in the Bara Imambara for your own safety.
  • If you are claustrophobic, please let your guide know in advance for the labyrinth can trigger the same for you.
  • There are restrooms, drinking water facilities and a small cafe within the premises.
  • It is advisable to combine your visit to the Bara Imambara with the other Lucknow historical places that are within walking distance. The linked post is a perfect Lucknow city guide.

Booking Resources

  • Booking.com has tons of options for hotels in and around Gomtinagar – my recommended area for a stay in Lucknow. Do use this link to browse through these options. You can also, use the same link to check options around Bara Imambara
  • Consider using Amazon through this link for your regular travel purchases. 
Disclaimer: This article includes affiliate links. This means that at no cost to you, I will receive a small commission if you purchase through my link. Thank you for supporting me with this.
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106 thoughts on “Decrypting the Crypt: Bhool Bhulaiya at Bara Imambara in Lucknow”

  4. Your pictures are beautiful. Sending you a big thank you for making this monument from my hometown look so amazing. Trying to find my way through the Bhool Bhulaiya is part of my childhood memories.

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  5. What a gorgeous place Ami. How neat too; the place is entirely edible, so if you cannot find your way out, you can eat your way out LOL 🙂 I would likely do what you did though, finding your way out in 5 minutes. As soon as I am on the move – traveling, in buildings, etc – my mind begins computing like the Terminator’s programming. I see images of where I was, and the direction in which I am heading, and it becomes easy to backtrack and find my way back.

    Ryan

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  6. Whoa! I’ve heard about the place, but somehow never bothered to look up about it and I’ve never been to Lucknow so far as well. Thanks for this detailed account on Bara Imambara. Made of edible materials and has no beams for high ceilings? That’s intriguing and really wanna check it all out myself!

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  9. What gorgeous architecture. I found it particularly interesting that it’s made out of edible products instead of traditional building materials! I think I would get a bit overwhelmed by the labyrinth but it looks beautiful and interesting nonetheless.

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  10. Seeing places like this make me want to visit India! I still haven’t been, but this building is so impressive and full of history and detail. Can you enter a mosque if you’re not muslim? I remember this from when I was in Morocco.

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    • You are right about not allowed to enter the mosque if you are not a Muslim but you can enter the Imambara and trust me.. That is something. Thanks for stopping by Lisa

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  11. That building is gorgeous! Funny that it took you less than five minutes to get out of the labyrinth. The entire complex looks like an amazing place to visit.

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  14. What an amazing architectural masterpiece! For some reason, the interiors do remind me of some of the European palaces. Maybe because of the wall colors? The rooftop is so pretty as well and the views over the entire complex are stunning. You definitely nailed the labyrinth game, getting out in 5 minutes 🙂

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    • Thanks Joanna. Maybe it is just the color of the walls but this place is so Mughal or Indian in its architecture.I do hope you visit here and try the labyrinth for yourself.

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  15. Wow, the details on the structures look amazing! Great job on successfully solving the challenge. Kudos to you too on taking great photos and remembering the details while being in a maze.

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  16. Kudos for completing that challenge! It’s something I’d love to try as well, I quite trust my internal gps too 😉 I’ve never been to Bara Imambara and was enthralled to read the story. Considering it is not very far from my home town (Delhi), it might be something I’ll put my list of places to explore next time I’m back home. Thanks for sharing!

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    • The road to Lucknow from Delhi is so beautiful…for driving. A beautiful highway and given that, you should head there soon. Lucknow I believe, is lovely in winters.

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  17. You’re really captured the heart of Lucknow beautifully in your post and the photographs. A true princely state it has so much history attached to it and the architecture and legends associated are extraordinary. The Bara Imambara and the famous Bhool bhulaiya do make for a amazing day out, or more in case you get lost on the maze.

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  20. Haha I lose my sense of direction when I’m hiking in my backyard so I can’t even imagine trying to find my way out of the labyrinth here! So I wonder if when exploring those tunnels you would still find human remains. How creepy to think!! Congrats on finding your way back to the ground floor – I definitely would have needed rescuing 😀

    Bara Imambara is a stunning complex – the architecture of the first gate makes it look like a palace. The sight of the sunset hitting the Mosque is just beautiful.

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  22. Haha what a fun read! Bravo for finding your way out within 5 minutes. Did the rest of the people got out? It is really beautiful place to visit! We have been traveling three month in India but we never got the chance to visit Lucknow! To be honest, I am not sure we will ever get the chance!

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  23. India is my favourite country in the world because of its history and spirituality. This is a photographers dream and I loved your pictures and the way you write, Good job!

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  25. Just loved these images!
    Lucknow Imambara is one of the monuments that I have always wanted to visit but I have never been able to make it to Lucknow.
    I heard of Bhool Bhulaiya in my schooldays while reading about Talatal Ghar in Assam. The later was believed to have been inspired by Bhool Bhulaiya to build the maze underneath the palace.

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    • Actually this area has a lot of other interesting places to see and yes, you will need one full day for it all. The Bara Imambara can be done in 2-3 hours.

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  30. It’s so beautiful. I never heard about this town before, so for me it’s quite new, and i’m shocked that in Lucknow lives more than 2 millions but on your pictures it’s so green 🙂

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  31. This looks like a very special place to visit! I love the colours on the inside, and the etchings along the walls! I can definitely see the Persian influences in the designs 🙂

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  33. I am so happy to see a blog on my city. Since it is close to my house, I have been here so many times. Winter is the best time to go here. Come to Lucknow again and I will be your host this time.

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  35. What a fascinating place! At the beginning I thought you were talking about a labyrinth-garden so I was looking for green pictures, lol. So congratulations for the successful challenge, now you need to ask your friend to propose you another one (more difficult if possible!)

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  36. It’s a challenge indeed. I couldn’t agree less , Bara Imambara is gorgeous. The building is architectural goals. And lol, your story made smile all through. I’d like to visit Bars Imambara but not for the challenge, I might get lost.

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  39. Nawabo ka shahar Lucknow is a place that we would love to visit but have somehow missed getting there many times. The Bara Inambara of course is a gem of a place, so finely etched, a masterpiece in stone. The Bhoolbhalaiya lookslike a challenge, not sure if our natural GPS is as good as yours. Great that you were able to emerge within 5 minutes from the labyrinth.

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  41. Bars imambara is a stunning building. When I visited India for 6 months I missed Lucknow. I really wish I’d gone to visit this building. It’s definitely on my itinerary next time!

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  44. Enjoyed your post and good job on getting out in less than 5 mins. I think I would still be wondering around, lol. Seriously though, it look beautiful and your pictures a wonderful. Thank you for sharing.

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  48. I also learn something completely new after reading your blog! The architecture in this crypt is incredible and unlike anything I’ve seen on my travels. I also find the history behind it very interesting, and well done on completing the challenge in so little time! I’m sure I’d be there at least an hour!!

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    • And to think – the underground portions have been sealed off. It must have been something back then. Am so glad that I managed to crack this small portion.

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  49. Brrr, this looks really scary! I’m not only claustrophobic but also totally disoriented in spaces like this. I don’t think I would have accepted this challenge, especially knowing how many people died in this labyrinth. I guess only the roof of the Bara Imambara would be for me.

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  50. What fun and what a challenge. I was so impressed with the first gateway to Bara Imambara until I saw your photo of the second gateway. Impressive! I am going to have to plan to visit at sunrise and sunset to get those amazing photos.

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  51. This architecture of Bara Imambara looks wordlessly amazing. Visually and even more so after knowing that it is made of edible materials. How incredible is that ?? Less than 5 minutes to get out of a maze, that’s impressive. I am marking this for a later time.

    Reply

  53. Wow, this Indian labyrinth looks amazing.It’s also really fascinating to read that such an imposing structure was made without using any metal or wood! Great job with finding the way out in less than 5 minutes, impressive 😀

    Reply

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