Don’t shoot me! I know I am a little delayed in sharing the next post of my Epic Indo-Nepal Road Trip. However, violence is not the solution. You got to be peaceful about it. Especially, if you are visiting the serene Swayambhunath temple in Kathmandu -for that is where we went next after the Pashupathinath temple and the Budhnilkantha temple on our Day One at Kathmandu. With the earlier two temples, we got a good insight into the Hindu way of life in Nepal and what was left was to explore the Buddhist aspect of it. The Swayambhunath temple was just perfect for that.
The Boudhanath Stupa and the Swayambhunath Stupa were the two places on our itinerary. While all of us would have loved to do both, we were short of time and needed to pick one. Encouraged by our local cab driver, we chose to head to the Swayambhunath temple – the place where Kathmandu is said to have originated from.
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The legend of Swayambhunath temple
A Bodhisattva by the name Manjushri is said to have had a dream of a Lotus growing in a valley. Following the same, he reached the present day Kathmandu Valley to find the very same lotus. He cut the lotus off in a manner where the water surrounding it drained away and the Lotus magically transformed itself into the present day stupa. Swayambhunath is the name given to is for it means “self-created“.
It is this legend that is the reason for the belief that Kathmandu originated from here. Though the present day evidence goes back to 2000 years when the first Licchavi King Manadev is said to have built the current Swayambhunath Stupa. Today, this place not just has the main stupa, but plenty of other interesting things to see.
Monkey temple or Monkey’s temple?
Located high on a hillock with 365 steps to climb, this Stupa kindled my interest with its story. Did I climb those 365 steps to attain my nirvana? Nope. Not this time. I mean, I was on a road trip with ScoutMyTrip – naturally, we used the road to reach the nearest entrance. 😉
The first thing that we saw were lots of monkeys. Based on my earlier research on the Swayambhunath temple, I knew it was called a “Monkey temple” but this was turning out to be the Monkey’s temple. They were all over the place – looking at you slyly, walking alongside you as if they were your guide and sometimes, even ignoring you to have their own drink of water. I admit that I like animals but when it comes to a monkey, I am on my guard with my bag and other possessions. I have had my share of incidences with them like the one that I described in Mandore Gardens of Jodhpur. Naturally, I had my 3rd eye open out for them.
Having said that, I did find them extremely amusing. It was nice to see them so comfortable in their home and coexist with the inhabitants of the Monastery within the Monkey temple. After a while, they became a natural addition to the whole environment and I ceased worrying about them.
Wishing at the Peace Pond
As you enter through the side gates (shortcut gates as I would say) of the Swayambhunath temple, you will encounter a beautiful fountain – the Peace Pond. Right at the foot of the lovely Buddha statue is a small cauldron. They say that if you manage to flick a coin into it, your wish will come true. These are not ordinary coins but ones that are bought from one of the vendors sitting there. I saw a number of people taking up the challenge and after I was done with my entire tour of the Swayambhunath temple, I did too. What did I want so desperately?
Well, I wished for a better aim and used the 10 pennies to practice just that!
Saraswathi Mandir
Our guide at the Swayambhunath temple decided that the grand finale of his tour should be the main Stupa and hence, we first set about exploring the other parts of this large temple complex. Our guide gave us some interesting tidbits about this place. One of them was the fact that the two chief beliefs of Nepal – Hinduism, and Buddhism coexisted and in some ways, amalgamated into each other. He pointed out at the Hindu temple opposite a monastery as an example.
At the first look, with its prayer wheels, it looked like a regular Buddhist temple but once you walk over to the other side, you would be surprised to not see a stupa. Instead, there is a Hindu shrine with the idol of Saraswati and Ganesha resting amidst the prayer wheels. All along the sides of this section are smaller idols of various Gods – all of them coming together to give you a distinct feel of Hinduism. For me, it was quite fascinating to see such a unique blend. Goes to show, how everything can peacefully coexist in this world.
Mini Stupas & artistic Idols of Swayambhunath temple
I mentioned the smaller idols along the walls of the Saraswathi temple. Well, they weren’t just there. They were all around the next few stupas that we saw. At every few meters, you would find mini stupas set in the center with prayer flags all around. While I found the stupas quite similar, it was the idols that caught my interest as I kept comparing them to the ones that I had seen in India. The proximity of the two regions – Nepal and India and their cultural similarities were so evident in these idols. These idols as the guide told us, were made by various artisans whole left them here as their way of exhibiting their skill.
Around some of these stupas, were huge bells. Some of them locked for the fear of damage over time. I found these quite fascinating and artistic and would sure have loved to hear the gongs. I even suspect that these were used to message around. If only I could ring them once!
The Pagoda of Ashes
One of the interesting parts of this visit was finding a Pagoda that was filled with stones. Nestled between those stones were white capsules that contained the ashes of the dead. Our guide explained to us that as per the Mahayana way of Buddhism after the dead are cremated, some ashes were stored in these white capsules and left behind in the Pagoda. The majority of the Ashes were washed away in a river, quite like the Hindu rites for the dead. With this interesting bit of information, we finally ascended a flight of stairs to reach the main stupa of Swayambhunath temple.
The main stupa of Swayambhunath temple
If there was indeed a lotus that turned into this stupa, it sure must have been an impressive one. The stupa commanded attention in its quiet, serene way – it was there big and bright and yet did not overpower the atmosphere. We approached the same from the side that had several smaller shrines set in a cluster. This is called the Swayambhunath Chaitya.
Design of the main Stupa
The most prominent thing about the Stupa were the eyes of Buddha in each direction, almost as if they were watching out for us. Carved on the gilded hoods or torans, are 5 Buddha figurines that represent the 5 senses. The gilded hoods (toran as they are termed) along with the eyes have been designed such that they represent certain beliefs in Buddhism. Though I tried to understand it all, I could not grasp it as well. I think it will take me some amount of dedication to get into the depth of it but for now, I am content to know that everything about the Stupa had a deeper meaning.
If you notice, there are some spirals that lead to the top of the Stupa (shikhara of the stupa). Each of these represents the ascent that needs to be made for Nirvana.
Around the Main Stupa
Facing the stupa in 5 directions were smaller shrines that connect to the 5 elements of nature. And right at the top of the 365 steps is a golden Vajra along with the guardian lions. There were two white colored temples around this same stupa which sadly are no more as they were destroyed during the 2015 earthquake. However, there are plenty of other smaller temples like the Hariti temple as seen below. The Hariti temple as our guide told us, was quite popular for the Goddess within the temple was said to cure all diseases.
As you walk around the Stupa, you will also, come across the 365 steps that are actually meant to be climbed to reach this Stupa. There were plenty of people doing it and as I saw them, I realized that it was one way in which grit, determination, and focus were driven into you by making you work towards nirvana.
All around the Stupa were prayer wheels – which you are to turn as you walk clockwise around the Stupa. It is a tradition and a ritual that every visitor here follows. You do not need to learn their prayer, just your faith is enough to allow you to finish this ritual.
Shopping at Swayambhunath temple
Being one of the oldest Buddhist temples in Asia and the fact that it is a prime tourist attraction, there is a bit of commercialization that you see at the Swayambhunath temple. From trinkets to curious and clothes, you will find plenty of shops selling goodies that you can take home as a keepsake. Remember one thing – they are priced higher than what you would get in the city. Hence, there is heavy bargaining to be done. Even if you are not looking at buying something, I suggest you do some window shopping. Trust me, the sights you are bound to see are quite amusing and interesting.
Once we had seen the main stupa, we returned back to our Oyo rooms Kathmandu to get ready for a cultural evening – in a Nepalese way. What I mean by that – Aha! Coming soon! For now, just relish the tour of the Swayambhunath temple and message in on what you thought of the same.
Getting here
- You can choose to do a road trip from India to Kathmandu as we did or just take a flight in.
- Once in Kathmandu, just hire a taxi to get you to the famous Swayambhunath temple. The taxis are easily available in the city. Ideally, try going in for a round trip to the temple is a little away from the center of the city.
Travel Tips
- The entrance fees for the Swayambhunath Stupa is Nepali Rupees 50 if you are an India. For a foreigner, it is Nepali Rupees 200
- You can hire a guide at the entrance of the temple for Nepali Rupees 1000. Ensure he takes you for the tour of the entire campus and not just the Stupa.
- Cover your shoulders when you visit the temple
- Be careful with your belongings – more so, as there are tons of monkeys around
- Please do not hurt the monkeys here. Buddhism is all about non-violence and peaceful coexistence. As a mark of respect for this place, please do heed to it.
- There are plenty of small cafes and shops within the campus.
- Restroom facilities are also, available here.
P. S: I visited this temple as a part of my Indo-Nepal road trip with ScoutMyTrip.com
Popularly referred to as a Restless Ball of Energy. My Mom refuses to entertain my complaints about my equally restless daughter & assures my husband that I was born with a travel bug.
I am a Post-Graduate in Marketing by qualification and a travel blogger by passion. Besides travel, I enjoy photography and if you don’t find me at my desk, I would be out playing badminton or swimming or just running. I believe in planning for every long weekend through the year. And when I cannot travel physically, I travel virtually through this travel blog. My travel stories have also, got published on various websites and magazines including BBC Travel, Lonely Planet India and Jetwings. I have recently published my first book – When Places Come Alive – a collection of stories that are based on legends, landscapes, art and culture of a place which is available in both ebook and paperback format.
Awesome post. Great to read about Swayambhunath Temple.
Beautiful photos.
Thank you Rupam
Om mani padme hum
Lovely read about the legends.
Thank you.
Nice coverage of the temple.
Thank you
Wow, this is truly such a wonderful temple. There’s always something about temples that left me in awe whenever I get to visit them. I like the intricate design, the colors and the rich history behind it. This is another temple to visit..
Yes, and this one is quite unique with its Hindu and Buddhist ways put together. You should visit it.
I will have to add this temple to my list of places to go when I get to Nepal. I hope those monkeys are friendly! Thanks for sharing.
I would not bet too much on the monkeys. Just be careful. Cheers
Wonderful post. The monkey temple (monkey’s temple) sounds amazing. I do agree though that you must keep your wits about you.
Thank you. Best to be on your guard with these guys.
Brilliant narration of a rich cultural and natural heritage site. I am sure many readers would know more about Buddhism after reading your post! Hinayan Buddhism is spread in India but Mahayan Buddhism is spread in all parts of the world especially South East Asia and China!
Thank you Ambuj. I can’t claim to have understood it all but whatever I have, well this is it!
Nepal with its culture and tradition that blends Buddhism and Hinduism has always been a source of fascination for me. The Swayambhunath temple indeed seems to be a microcosm of this very culture. Each and every nook and corner of the temple seems to hold in its fold an intriguing story. The huge bell in the premises reminded me of a similar one that I have seen in Sarnath.
It sure is an intriguing culture.
You always have a very informative yet so engaging way of recounting the experience. It’s like you’ve taken me to this temple, too. 😀
Thank you Joan. You just made my day!
I am usually wary around Monkeys too. It is so interesting to know the legend of the lotus and how Kathmandu supposedly came out of it. Swayambhunath temple seems to be such an interesting Buddhist temple and would love to visit one day. 365 steps actually seem doable.
Thanks Soumya. The temple steps are doable. Saw a lot of people climb those. You must mark this as a place to go if you are in Kathmandu.
What a stunning temple! I love the design and the history behind.
Thank you. The heritage behind it is what makes it so interesting.
I am planning a trip to Kathmandu. Thanks for sharing.
Glad to help. Cheers
This temple seems very interesting and unique in its own. I would love to visit one day. Shop and take photos. Observe and admire the structures… I don’t know if I could get acquainted to the monkeys though. I am still a bit indifferent with these cool creatures.
It definitely will appeal to you then and I do hope you get to it soon. Thanks for stopping by.
These are such beautiful sights … loved those candid shots of the monkeys 🙂
Thank you. Glad you liked them too.
Beautiful temples I have heard that there are so many best temples in Kathmandu. I think this is certainly one of them. Thanks for sharing this! I would definitely visit it someday! Cheers!
It sure is a lovely cultural experience being here. Hope you get to it soon. Thanks.
I’m always fascinated by information, folklore and legends related to monuments and temples. I wonder why there are 365 steps exactly. The giant bells are stunning…would love to take back a miniature souvenir.
You should buy the miniature prayer wheels as souvenirs. They are really cute. Thanks for stopping by
That is a beautifully sculptured temple. Love those stupas. Monkeys are a usual thing in Buddhist temples.
Not sure of the usual thing but these monkeys were just all over. Thanks for stopping by Gokul
I have seen a lot of temples as I lived in Thailand for 7 months, but this one is unlike anything I’ve ever seen! Definitely something I would love to check out if I was in the area
These are a lot different from the Siam ones. I am sure you will enjoy comparing them. 🙂 Thanks Tarah for stopping by
As an animal lover I can’t help but be attracted to the monkeys. Like you, I find them interesting to watch but also have eyes in the back of my head until they’re out of sight! I also love the story of how the stupa came about. Thanks for sharing!
They sure are pesky unpredictable creatures. Best to be on guard. Glad you enjoyed the post Jodie. Cheers
That’s another interesting temple from Nepal! That pic of the little monkey bent down to drink water out of the temple outlet is so adorable! Its interesting to see a Saraswati temple as well, we have very very few…
It was quite adorable to see it too…the monkey bending over the tap. Interesting temple indeed Bhushavali. You would have loved it.
We have a great fascination for Buddhist temples and for the same reason Nepal and Bhutan have been high on our list. The swayambhunath temple looks beautiful with all those artwork and sculptures around the temple.
I am sure you will enjoy Nepal. Though there is more of a Hindu influence here. Hope you plan a trip soon.
I Always love the legends and it seems you have many great stories over there. I am not a fan of Buddhist temples, but these ones look nice. I would love to see the one with the monkeys.
I enjoy the temples for the stories that they tell. And these ones have a lot. Wendy, you should just visit for these tales.
We can’t wait to go to Nepal! This temple looks so beautiful, would be great for photography and we can’t wait! Monkeys are so adorable too! Beautiful photos – really inspired us to go!
Thank you so much. You sure will enjoy photographing this place. Cheers
I’ve been to Nepal and loved it. Kathmandu is so fascinating. I love the temples and Durbar Squares. Thanks for writing about the legend – that’s really interesting!I love to hear about the ancient traditions.
The legends is what I love about these places. They breathe life into it…don’t you think so, Tom?
As I am reading your series of Nepal trip, I am getting more and more fascinated to visit Nepal. The Swayambhunath temple is a another marvel. I loved the main stupa and other sculptures around it. The overlapping of Hindu and Buddhist culture is another interesting things and climbing 365 stairs might be holding some deep significance for sure. Thanks for sharing this.
More and more interesting things here in Nepal. Stay tuned Suruchi. I hope that by the end of the series, you will be booking your hotels here.
I’m not particularly religious but I’ve always been curious about the Buddhist traditions and the culture surrounding their many temples and sacred sites. My mind was blown in Myanmar by the vast scale and number of buddha statues and stupas. This site in Nepal looks fascinating and having some friendly monkeys just makes it even better!
It is quite a different religion and grasping it all does take time. I still am figuring it all out. But it is fascinating nonetheless. Am sure you will enjoy this site for just that.
I love reading about temples and I enjoy visiting them. I’ve never been to Kathmandu before, and you’re pictures brought me there. Hope you had a wonderful time during your visit?
I had a fantastic time. You should head there too for some good times 😀
Such a nice story about the lotus flower! And your pictures are amazing. Now I’m even more amazed by Kathmandu, after reading your post! 🙂
Thank you. Happy that my post triggered that off for you. Stay tuned for more of interesting Kathmandu.
I can totally see a lotus in the architecture. I love history like this. I would probably avoid the monkeys. Unpredictable little creatures.
Totally, just stay away from the creatures and you will find them and the place nice.! Thanks for stopping by.
It looks like a very special place to visit. Thanks for your detailed description and useful information and tips. It would be great to see it some time.
Thank you Anita. Glad you liked the post.
Haha, I loved the way you started the blog. I loved the vibes of Swayambhunath. I visisted early morning and the atmosphere was so soul satisfying. The culture of Nepal is so much like that of India and yet so different.
Ha ha, you know me, I like the little drama 😉 Nepalese culture was very refreshing to discover and I can well understand what you mean by soul satisfying 🙂
Yup
Thanks for the detailed content about the historic site of Nepal Swayambhunath Temple.
My pleasure. Glad you liked it.